Q:  My wife and I have a eight month old baby and a 7 year old african grey. My grey clearly dislikes the baby and acts aggressively when they are in the same room together. Why?
-Ben G., Santa Ana, CA

A:  Every bird will certainly notice the squirmy new baby you have brought home, but their reaction to them will vary from bird to bird. There are a few different ways of looking at it from a bird’s perspective:
The INTERESTED bird:
A new baby brings a lot of new sights, sounds and smells.  Many birds will welcome the changes and enjoy the opportunity to experience these new things right alongside the family. If things were getting dull for the bird, the days sure aren’t boring now. Your bird is wonderfully inquisitive and secure.  He is happy to go with the flow.
The DISGUSTED bird:
The very same things that the interested bird loves, the disgusted bird will find fault with.  He may be the bird that liked things just fine as they were, and is a bit intolerant of change. He may continually voice his opinions about his dislike of the new situation and may grow to be unable to accept the changes or the child.
The JEALOUS bird:
Just about any bird has the potential to become jealous, and african greys can be a bit more sensitive than some other species of parrot. Is your bird’s jealousy justifiable? Has he been put on the back burner to watch the new baby get all the attention?  If this is the case, then it is understandable that he is angry. He might turn his back to you, scream, bite or just simply not wish to be your friend anymore. All the while, he is growing more and more resentful of the new baby because none of these feelings existed before it arrived, so surely it is the baby’s fault.

I don’t think anyone bringing home their first baby is really fully aware of the huge and awesome responsibility they have taken on. I know I was clueless. A new baby can take up every spare second and ounce of energy you have, leaving little for the parrot who was once the center attention. I’m not saying this to make anyone feel bad. It’s just a fact of life. Things are never the same once the baby comes, but it can be particularly hard on a bird that is used to being the baby, or is insecure or unadaptable to begin with.

Here are some tips on how to make the arrival of a new baby an easier experience for your bird:

• When you are about five months pregnant, start talking to your bird about the changes that are coming. He won’t have any idea what you are saying, but will know that you are trying to communicate something to him and his attention will be piqued.
• Buy a stuffed animal that will represent the baby for a time. Let him watch you put together the crib and place the stuffed animal in it. Carry the stuffed animal around with you like you would a baby. Put it in the baby swing in the living room.  Pretend to burp it etc., all in view of the parrot. Watch his reactions to the stuffed animal. It is during this time that he will learn that sharing you does not have to be a negative thing, as long as you continue to make him feel like he is important.  He will make the connection when the real baby moves in.
• After you bring the baby home, try not to let him get lost in all the excitement. Make it a point to deliver a favorite snack to him with enthusiasm while he is in the cage. And when the baby goes down for a nap or the night, try to make this a special bonding time for you and your parrot. Small efforts in this area will go a long way. Short times out of the cage may be enough at the beginning, while everyone is making the adjustment.  Perhaps 5 or 10 minutes out of cage, several times a day, will keep him feeling like he’s still a part of the family for the time being.
• I don’t recommend that you send the parrot away for boarding just before you bring the new baby home. Imagine how awful it would feel to be sent away only to return to find your home is forever changed. In the future, you may find that boarding your bird is problematic as he may believe that something unwanted awaits him when he is to arrive back home. Give him the opportunity to handle this experience gracefully. If he he does well, boarding can be a consideration for future babies.
• DO NOT try to introduce your parrot to the new baby. Your parrot can seriously injure an infant before you can react to stop it. Even a small child can receive a terrible bite just for the crime of being a child.  It is NOT worth the risk.

Be watchful of your bird’s feelings and reactions and make the necessary adjustments to your schedule to fit him in. If you don’t handle this with finesse, it could result in having to make the decision to rehome him when he is unable to cope with the changes and becomes difficult to live with. I think it’s safe to say that a single bird suffers the most. Birds that have established companionship with other birds has them to fall back on.  This  doesn’t mean your relationship with the bird won’t suffer if he feels you have done him wrong. Your bird, who has been your faithful friend, deserves your best.  Always.
Birds and babies can live happily ever after. Children who grow up with animals and birds have a deeper understand and love for nature. It’s a wonderful experience to dearly love something that is completely different than yourself. There are stories out there about parrots saving the lives of toddlers in trouble in very creative ways. Children and parrots do not have to be like oil and water, and as long as the conscientious owner puts forth the effort and sends the right messages they can have a beautiful, profound relationship .

This question seems to be coming up a lot recently on the birdtricks facebook page and other places I visit regularly. I appreciate that people have the good sense to ask, but it’s a very difficult question to answer without knowing the person asking it, without getting a sense of the person or what their lifestyle is. I normally spend more effort trying to talk people out of getting birds than recommending a species to them.

Owning a bird takes a lot of time and work:
Are you up to it? Those of us with birds understand the higher level of care they require compared to our cats and dogs.  Aside from daily cleaning chores that come with having a bird, there are dietary requirements that take more time and thought than just opening a can.  With their great level of intelligence, they need constant mental stimulation.  And being social creatures, they require out of cage time with their flock and family member. Without attention to these details, a bird can easily become aggressive, loud and/or feather destructive. No one will be happy with this outcome, not you, not your bird.
Since no one can answer this question for you, it’s time to take a good look in the mirror and decide what kind of person you are, and how much of yourself you are willing to give to a parrot.  If you are a good, attentive owner, plan on getting up a little earlier for work and making some changes to your social calendar.  This might be tough on a younger new owner.

And a lot of money:
Birds are very long lived pets. They require lots of toys to keep them mentally and physically active.  Store bought toys are expensive, and if they are good toys and you have chosen them well for your parrot, they are promptly destroyed.  This is the point of toys.  Birds require fresh foods everyday, a good brand of pelleted food, some species require seed and nuts, others have specialized diets. You will be spending some time in the kitchen if you are feeding your bird correctly.  A good quality and appropriately sized powder coated cage for a large bird will cost $1000 or more.  This is tough on an owner of any age.

But mostly, a lot of patience and good sense:
It takes a lot of thought to raise a bird to be happy and independent and a welcomed part of the family. Parrots have the knack for throwing curve balls at their owners. Just when you think you’ve got them figured out, they will begin a behavior you’ve never seen before. Or decide they now hate their favorite food, toy or person.  You will learn to explore why your bird does something before you even try to understand how to go about finding a solution to a problem. You will have to know your species of bird well, in both captive and wild settings. After a while, creative thinking will be second nature.  You will learn that it truly takes a village to raise a parrot. You will find the advice and wisdom of those experienced with the type of bird you have selected to be helpful and comforting, and you will seek these people out.
Does this sound like nonsense to you?  Get a fish.

Still want one?
Which bird? To begin with, I don’t believe that there is any species of parrot that should be considered a “beginner bird”. Smaller birds are just as in need of enrichment, good food and love as are the big birds. The only difference is the volume with which they can state a complaint, or the severity of the bite they may issue when you make the mistakes we all did as beginners. If the beak intimidates you, you already know you want a smaller bird.
The very best way to determine which bird is right for you is to talk to someone who has the species you have in mind.  There are sites pertaining to EVERY species on the internet. Google conure, for instance, and you will find more info on the many species of conure than you can process in one sitting.  Go onto the bird forums and ask if anyone has a green cheeked conure because you are thinking about getting one. They will be happy to share info with you about the good, bad and ugly of that species. As your research continues, you might stumble across a bird species you hadn’t considered that would fit nicely into your life.
Know that the traits listed are what is typical of the species.  It doesn’t mean that every bird reads the manual. Some african greys don’t talk, some scarlet macaws aren’t nippy, not all cockatoos need to run the world.
If you decide to rehome your first bird, you should be aware that you are taking on the product of any mistakes or wrong-doings made by previous owners.  Often these birds come baggage, some bags are heavier than others. These birds sometimes need special considerations in terms of patience, and may need a push in the right direction in the areas of diet and socialization.
A lot, if not most, of how your bird turns out has to do with your technique of raising the bird and your willingness to put the time and effort into him. You will have your bird with you for a very long time. Take all the time you need now to choose carefully.

Q:  I want to bring my birds outside during the day.  How hot is TOO hot for my birds?

-William B., Buffalo, NY

A:  There are many, many great benefits to giving your birds a daily dose of sunshine and fresh air, but climate and temperature does play a role and involve risks.  For the bird that is accustomed to being outdoors and has been able to make that gradual adjustment from season to season, it is more simple: watching for signs of distress and keeping water plentiful.  For the bird who lives indoors and is accustomed to heat and A/C it is a bit more tricky.
The hottest, and most concerning, part of the day are between the hours of 10am and 2pm. This is when the sun is directly overhead. The heat, however, can linger well into the late afternoon making temperatures just as uncomfortable, and birds are as susceptible to heat related conditions (and death) as are humans. The difference is that, while we can move indoors when we are over heated, our birds are trapped in a cage. Hopefully the humans are paying attention.

Slow acclimatization with indoor parrots works best when you begin in the springtime, just as temperature are reaching a comfortable level. Start by closing the vents in the room your bird occupies, blocking the heat or A/C, and opening the windows so that the room can match the temperature outdoors. In the spring, choose the warmest time of the day to do this. A fan can be used for circulation if needed . If you do this everyday for 2-3 hours, your bird will be able to make slow, natural progress toward heat tolerance. By the time, the full strength of the summer sun arrives, he should be ready to enjoy the great outdoors.
If your are just beginning the acclimatization now, you will have to vary the schedule a bit, and be more careful. Use the same method, but open the windows in the early morning, between sun up and 9 or 10am, depending on the temperature, and in the early evening between 4 or 5pm and until sundown (and through the night if you are certain that the temperatures will remain comfortable). In this case, be certain a fan is running for air circulation, but never aim the air flow at the bird. Intersperse this with short periods outdoors through the day, maybe 20 minutes here and there. Eventually your bird will grow more tolerant to higher temperatures and will be able to spend longer durations of time outside. Keep in mind that you should always bring your bird back inside before he gets overheated. Outside should be a fun place to be, but it won’t be if he expects to be uncomfortable every time you take him out.

It is important to note that no matter how well adjusted your bird becomes to the heat (or cold), it can be overwhelming.  Be certain to be very watchful for signs of overheating and never place the cage in the direct sun. Many outdoor aviaries have solid roofs which provide shade. Cages are metal, however, and hold in extra heat, try to place your aviary in a shaded area.  Make sure the water dishes are full of clean, cool water.  Remember that the direct sun can make it too warm for them to drink, so it needs to be checked often. If you are using a standard cage outdoors, make sure the top is covered.  A large sheet of plywood that covers the entire top with an overhang of several inches (to provide additional shade) would be perfect. At very least be certain there is a shaded corner for your bird to retreat to.
If it is too hot for YOU to be outside, bring your birds inside. Birds that live indoors do not have the same feathering as birds that live outdoors year-round. Our birds aren’t able to utilize down feathers to insulate themselves from extreme temperatures because companion birds don’t grow them in great numbers. They don’t need to. They live indoors.
For signs of heat distress, look for drooping wings (a bird will move it’s wings away from its body to cool down), lethargy and open beak breathing (or panting). If you see this, take action.  Bring your bird inside and run lukewarm water over him (never use cold water). Soak him right down to the skin and put him in his indoor cage at a comfortable temperature.  Let him dry naturally and watch him to make sure he springs back. Offering cool water and fresh fruit will help to replenish fluids.

Cockatoos are weird. I’m sorry, but they are. It is this fact that makes them such a challenge and so interesting, and my favorite species of bird.  I understand what mine like and dislike. I know to avoid what makes them nervous or over-excited. I get it that they are high strung sometimes.  But their moods can turn on a dime. One minute I can be a valued flock member, the next I’m at the top of their ten most wanted list.
Over the years I have tried to compile a mental list of strategies to employ during times when the mood shifts in the blink of an eye from happy playtime to defcon 1.  I have found that the most effective responses are usually the spontaneous ones.
One example comes to mind:  I was in the kitchen loading the dishwasher one night, and Linus, my umbrella cockatoo, was preening peacefully on the back of a kitchen chair about 10 feet away. He climbed off the chair and walked up behind me wanting to be lifted to the counter, as he often does. I was rinsing a dish and couldn’t reach down to him right away so he left the room and wandered towards the living room and out of sight. I knew his destination was a particular doorway that he liked to visit, and remodel, so I dried my hands and was prepared to head out to stop him. Just as I turned around, I saw him coming towards me, wings out, beak open, eyes focused on my ankles. I had to think quickly before there was bloodshed. I grabbed the silverware out of the dish drainer tray and dropped it all on the floor in front of my feet. In an instant the mood was broken. It was hilarious because the change happened so quickly: “I’m gonna kick your…SPOONS!!”

There was one day when Theo, my goffins cockatoo, was on her playstand when a red-tailed hawk decided to pay a visit.  It landed on the patio railing about 6 feet from where she was. She was in the house, and the slider doors were shut, but the poor little thing had a total meltdown. I shut the blinds and she managed to step up onto my arm, but I don’t think she was even aware that she did it. She was running up and down my arm, spinning in circles looking all around her. I could come up with nothing that would calm her, so I put her in the refrigerator. Yes I did. Of course, I kept the door wide open, but the minute her little feet hit that cold shelf in that weird little room with all those strange things, she completely forgot about her bad experience and went about exploring instead. Diversion.
There have been many times that I have had to come up with something in a pinch to change the course of a bird’s mood.  Exploring the closet is a favorite.  The utensil drawer in the kitchen is the ultimate, second only to my underwear drawer. Just a chat about the weather while standing at the window will get the job done on most days.
Once, when I was unable to get Linus to quiet down with my usual methods, I grabbed a newspaper, stood by his cage and began shredding it into strips that I let fall to the floor. He kept screaming, I kept ripping, until I had a nice, big pile. Eventually, he stopped screaming, but probably because it was just so strange to him that I was making a mess all over the floor, a job usually reserved for him.  I opened his cage and left the room. He spent the next hour playing in the paper pile, quietly.

Yes, I had to wash all the dropped wooden spoons and spatulas, clean up the newspaper that covered the entire floor, and Theo did poop in the fridge, but that’s no big deal when you consider what got accomplished. There is no end to the ideas you can come up with to stop your bird mid-hissy or turn an angry bird into a playful one if you use your imagination..

Photo by axialmotion.com

It’s not even technically summer yet and it’s already hotter than you-know-where in Florida.  Along with the summer heat comes the insects.  Those of us with birds, pets and children know it’s especially important to reach a solution to these problems that is not toxic to those who might come in contact with it.

If you go to the supermarket, you will find shelves of insecticides and  bug repellents like Off.  Some of these products work really well.  Combat ant traps are great, but  they could also kill your bird should he gets a hold of one. A few years ago, I talked at length with a lady who lost her military macaw after he found one of these ant traps and tore into it like a foraging toy.  It really isn’t worth the risk.

It is wise to use only natural products in any area that your bird might happen into.  Keep in mind that many of the synthetic poisons used in the dangerous products are based on natural remedies.  Manufacturers took the ideas from nature and produced chemicals that get the same job done at a cheaper cost to them.  They are are hazardous to all that come in contact with them, not just the bugs. Recent studies have link Parkinson’s Disease to exposure to these chemicals.  Natural products DO work and I encourage you to give them a try.  The following information will provide you with some great tips on natural and safe remedies:

Photo from www.stat.columbia.edu

Marylin Zelinsjy-Syarto in her website Shelter Pop recommends these organic solutions:

Ants
Most ants can be controlled with homemade bait made from peanut butter (two tablespoons), jelly (two tablespoons) and boric acid (one teaspoon). Put the bait in a small disposable container. To eliminate ant mounds outside, try this trick: Dampen the mounds with water, then pour on baking soda and a bit of white vinegar — the mixture will bubble and kill off the ants.
Mosquitoes
Planting basil outside is known to repel flies and mosquitoes, but there is a new natural repellent with the main ingredient of catnip from Preventive Pest Control, a bug control service with locations nationwide.
Spiders
Spiders can easily be killed with a mixture of water (40 percent), alcohol (40 percent) and dish soap (20 percent). Put the mixture in an inexpensive sprayer and spray on the spider.
Flies
To repel flies, fill a one gallon clear plastic zip top bag less than halfway with water, then hang it near the top of your door, on your railings or from your eaves (you can do this by using duct tape, or, by gathering together and tying the top of the bag with rope, rubber bands or tape and then hooking it gently onto a nail without making a hole in the bag). Flies have compound vision so when they see the water, they will think there are hundreds of flies nearby and they won’t be interested in coming around anymore.
Cockroaches
To control cockroaches, try Niban Bait, made from boric acid (it is available only online at Professional Pest Control Products

Photo by pestcommand.com

The Kitchen Physician at BirdsnWays.com offers this advice:

GENERAL PEST REMEDIES

Diatomaceous earth (DE) can be sprinkled on areas where pests are found. It contains the spent shells of tiny sea creatures that are sharp enough to damage the exoskeleton and cause insects to dehydrate. DE is harmless to humans and animals. Parrots should not breathe the powder as it is being applied in the aviary. One brand available in natural food markets is “Concern” by Necessary Organics.

Neem–the seed kernels of the Neem tree are rich in limonoids, bitter tasting chemicals that effectively block development, feeding and egg laying in many species of insects. The most powerful limonoid (azadirachtin) has been certified by health authorities in the USA and Europe as being non-toxic to birds, animals and humans, but highly effective against insects.

Ivory liquid dishwashing detergent, diluted with water to a 1 to 2% solution, provides insect control on many plants and is easy to mix. Spray plants until they are drenched.

Frogs, spiders, ladybugs, praying mantis, and dragon flies will help to reduce pest populations around the home and garden.

One bat will eat up to 600 mosquitoes, harmful moths and other insect pest per hour at night. Bats do not attack people or harm pets and can be encouraged to inhabit “bat houses” on your property.

FRUIT FLIES

Place some of the birds’ discarded soft food in an open Ziploc bag in the evening. By morning, the bag will be full of fruit flies and can be sealed and discarded.

Place saucers of fragrant wine with a few drops of detergent in areas frequented by fruit flies. They will die happy!

Place fragrant fruit such as mango peels in the bottom of wine bottles. Fruit flies go in and cannot get out. Photo by smosh.com

ANTS

Wash countertops, cabinets, and floor with equal parts vinegar and water to deter ant infestations.

Sprinkle powdered cinnamon on ant trails. Several types of ants will not cross a barrier of cinnamon powder, powdered charcoal, bone meal, talcum powder, or chalk.

Parrot cage legs can be set in shallow pans filled with water–like small moats that ants cannot cross.

Fire ants–Killing the egg -laying queen is the only way to destroy the colony. Choose a day when the ground is dry. Gently sprinkle a teaspoon of instant grits on each fireant hill. The worker ants carry the grits to the queen who eats them. When she drinks water, the grits expand in her stomach and kill her. The remainder of the hill dies within a day.

COCKROACHES

Prevention–Close off all cracks around pipes and electric lines where roaches enter the house. Use cement, screening, or Brillo pads. Caulk small cracks along baseboards, walls, cupboards, and around pipes, sinks, and bathtub fixtures. Seal food tightly. Rinse food off dishes that are left overnight. Do not leave pet food out overnight.

Release small geckos in your home and aviary. Provide dishes of water for them to drink. They will feast upon the roaches at night in the late evening, and sleep out of sight during daylight hours.

Baking soda and powdered sugar mixed in equal parts and spread around infested area is a non-toxic roach killer.

Diatomaceous earth (DE) can be sprinkled on areas where roaches are seen. Parrots should not breathe the powder as it is being applied in the aviary. One brand available in natural food markets is “Concern” by Necessary Organics Inc. SEED MOTHS

Freeze bird seeds if possible to kill larvae and store all food in airtight containers.

Place basil leaves or mint teabags in bags or canisters of bird seed to repel moths.

Instead of using toxic mothballs in clothing storage areas, use whole cloves in cheesecloth or spice bags and hang them in closets or stored bags of clothing.

Place sticky fly strips (without pesticides) into an old bird cage or a closed basket out of the reach of children, birds, and other pets. Make your own sticky paper by boiling sugar, corn syrup, and water together. Spread the mixture on brown paper grocery bags. If a bird accidentally contacts fly paper and gets the sticky goo on its feathers, Citra-solv will safely remove it. Photo by smosh.com

FLIES

To prevent flies, keep garbage containers tightly closed. Sprinkle dry soap powder or flakes into garbage cans after they have been washed and allowed to dry.

In a small glass or jar, pour about one inch of real cider or red wine. Make a cover with saran wrap and a rubber band. Punch about six holes with a bamboo skewer or other shaper object. Flies will crawl in but cannot crawl out.MOSQUITOES

Avoid wearing perfume, bright colors, flowery prints, and bright jewelry as these items attract mosquitoes.

Burn citronella candles to repel insects.

Neem products repel and affect the development of mosquitoes. Two percent Neem oil mixed in coconut oil, when applied to exposed body parts, provides complete protection for twelve hours from bites of all anophelines.MICE

Place instant mashed potato powder or potato eyes (buds) in strategic places with a dish of water close by. After eating the powder or buds, mice will need water. Drinking water causes fatal bloating.

Use “snap traps” inside a box with an entrance hole large enough only for mice to prevent birds and other pets from being injured.

If you have OUTDOOR AVIARIES, you must be careful about the weed killers you use around them as well, especially if you live in an area where it doesn’t rain regularly.  The Avenger from Green Advantage Organics was recommended to me.

These are by no means the only remedies that are safe and natural.  Click here for variations used by readers of the Dollar Stretcher website.

Photo by photographytips.com

Should I use any soap or shampoo when bathing my bird?

-Karen F., Hanover, MA

No. Not only is it unnecessary to use anything but water when bathing your bird, it is counterproductive to a bird’s natural cleansing process.  Most birds have a preen gland (uropygial gland) which is located at the the base of its tail.  When a bird is preening, it pinches this gland which then excretes an oil that is spread throughout the feathers.  This oil gives helps to keep feathers in proper condition.
In waterbirds, the preen gland excretes more oil giving them their waterproofing.  The oils also have anti-parasitic effect, helping wild birds keep lice at bay and an antibacterial effect that keeps down feather degradation. The action of the bird running its beak through the feathers distributes these oils, keeps feathers in position and removes any dirt and debris.
Using soap or shampoos will wash away these oils and the feathers condition will deteriorate. It will also dry out their skin. Itchy birds have been known to pluck.  I know that there are bird “shampoos” on the market, please don’t buy them.  It’s just another way of getting bird owners to spend yet more money, and they will prove to be harmful to your bird.
Bathing your birds often will inspire them to preen and distribute these oils.  I bathe my birds at least three times a week, never less than two. Some birds prefer mist or spray baths others prefer to take a shower in our bathrooms, others still like a nice bowl of cool water to take a dip in.  If your have small birds, try adding some fresh parsley or kale leaves to the water. They love to roll around in the greens.  Be prepared for a mess, though, my quaker can spray water 8-10′ with her little wings!