This question seems to be coming up a lot recently on the birdtricks facebook page and other places I visit regularly. I appreciate that people have the good sense to ask, but it’s a very difficult question to answer without knowing the person asking it, without getting a sense of the person or what their lifestyle is. I normally spend more effort trying to talk people out of getting birds than recommending a species to them.

Owning a bird takes a lot of time and work:
Are you up to it? Those of us with birds understand the higher level of care they require compared to our cats and dogs.  Aside from daily cleaning chores that come with having a bird, there are dietary requirements that take more time and thought than just opening a can.  With their great level of intelligence, they need constant mental stimulation.  And being social creatures, they require out of cage time with their flock and family member. Without attention to these details, a bird can easily become aggressive, loud and/or feather destructive. No one will be happy with this outcome, not you, not your bird.
Since no one can answer this question for you, it’s time to take a good look in the mirror and decide what kind of person you are, and how much of yourself you are willing to give to a parrot.  If you are a good, attentive owner, plan on getting up a little earlier for work and making some changes to your social calendar.  This might be tough on a younger new owner.

And a lot of money:
Birds are very long lived pets. They require lots of toys to keep them mentally and physically active.  Store bought toys are expensive, and if they are good toys and you have chosen them well for your parrot, they are promptly destroyed.  This is the point of toys.  Birds require fresh foods everyday, a good brand of pelleted food, some species require seed and nuts, others have specialized diets. You will be spending some time in the kitchen if you are feeding your bird correctly.  A good quality and appropriately sized powder coated cage for a large bird will cost $1000 or more.  This is tough on an owner of any age.

But mostly, a lot of patience and good sense:
It takes a lot of thought to raise a bird to be happy and independent and a welcomed part of the family. Parrots have the knack for throwing curve balls at their owners. Just when you think you’ve got them figured out, they will begin a behavior you’ve never seen before. Or decide they now hate their favorite food, toy or person.  You will learn to explore why your bird does something before you even try to understand how to go about finding a solution to a problem. You will have to know your species of bird well, in both captive and wild settings. After a while, creative thinking will be second nature.  You will learn that it truly takes a village to raise a parrot. You will find the advice and wisdom of those experienced with the type of bird you have selected to be helpful and comforting, and you will seek these people out.
Does this sound like nonsense to you?  Get a fish.

Still want one?
Which bird? To begin with, I don’t believe that there is any species of parrot that should be considered a “beginner bird”. Smaller birds are just as in need of enrichment, good food and love as are the big birds. The only difference is the volume with which they can state a complaint, or the severity of the bite they may issue when you make the mistakes we all did as beginners. If the beak intimidates you, you already know you want a smaller bird.
The very best way to determine which bird is right for you is to talk to someone who has the species you have in mind.  There are sites pertaining to EVERY species on the internet. Google conure, for instance, and you will find more info on the many species of conure than you can process in one sitting.  Go onto the bird forums and ask if anyone has a green cheeked conure because you are thinking about getting one. They will be happy to share info with you about the good, bad and ugly of that species. As your research continues, you might stumble across a bird species you hadn’t considered that would fit nicely into your life.
Know that the traits listed are what is typical of the species.  It doesn’t mean that every bird reads the manual. Some african greys don’t talk, some scarlet macaws aren’t nippy, not all cockatoos need to run the world.
If you decide to rehome your first bird, you should be aware that you are taking on the product of any mistakes or wrong-doings made by previous owners.  Often these birds come baggage, some bags are heavier than others. These birds sometimes need special considerations in terms of patience, and may need a push in the right direction in the areas of diet and socialization.
A lot, if not most, of how your bird turns out has to do with your technique of raising the bird and your willingness to put the time and effort into him. You will have your bird with you for a very long time. Take all the time you need now to choose carefully.

Q:  I want to bring my birds outside during the day.  How hot is TOO hot for my birds?

-William B., Buffalo, NY

A:  There are many, many great benefits to giving your birds a daily dose of sunshine and fresh air, but climate and temperature does play a role and involve risks.  For the bird that is accustomed to being outdoors and has been able to make that gradual adjustment from season to season, it is more simple: watching for signs of distress and keeping water plentiful.  For the bird who lives indoors and is accustomed to heat and A/C it is a bit more tricky.
The hottest, and most concerning, part of the day are between the hours of 10am and 2pm. This is when the sun is directly overhead. The heat, however, can linger well into the late afternoon making temperatures just as uncomfortable, and birds are as susceptible to heat related conditions (and death) as are humans. The difference is that, while we can move indoors when we are over heated, our birds are trapped in a cage. Hopefully the humans are paying attention.

Slow acclimatization with indoor parrots works best when you begin in the springtime, just as temperature are reaching a comfortable level. Start by closing the vents in the room your bird occupies, blocking the heat or A/C, and opening the windows so that the room can match the temperature outdoors. In the spring, choose the warmest time of the day to do this. A fan can be used for circulation if needed . If you do this everyday for 2-3 hours, your bird will be able to make slow, natural progress toward heat tolerance. By the time, the full strength of the summer sun arrives, he should be ready to enjoy the great outdoors.
If your are just beginning the acclimatization now, you will have to vary the schedule a bit, and be more careful. Use the same method, but open the windows in the early morning, between sun up and 9 or 10am, depending on the temperature, and in the early evening between 4 or 5pm and until sundown (and through the night if you are certain that the temperatures will remain comfortable). In this case, be certain a fan is running for air circulation, but never aim the air flow at the bird. Intersperse this with short periods outdoors through the day, maybe 20 minutes here and there. Eventually your bird will grow more tolerant to higher temperatures and will be able to spend longer durations of time outside. Keep in mind that you should always bring your bird back inside before he gets overheated. Outside should be a fun place to be, but it won’t be if he expects to be uncomfortable every time you take him out.

It is important to note that no matter how well adjusted your bird becomes to the heat (or cold), it can be overwhelming.  Be certain to be very watchful for signs of overheating and never place the cage in the direct sun. Many outdoor aviaries have solid roofs which provide shade. Cages are metal, however, and hold in extra heat, try to place your aviary in a shaded area.  Make sure the water dishes are full of clean, cool water.  Remember that the direct sun can make it too warm for them to drink, so it needs to be checked often. If you are using a standard cage outdoors, make sure the top is covered.  A large sheet of plywood that covers the entire top with an overhang of several inches (to provide additional shade) would be perfect. At very least be certain there is a shaded corner for your bird to retreat to.
If it is too hot for YOU to be outside, bring your birds inside. Birds that live indoors do not have the same feathering as birds that live outdoors year-round. Our birds aren’t able to utilize down feathers to insulate themselves from extreme temperatures because companion birds don’t grow them in great numbers. They don’t need to. They live indoors.
For signs of heat distress, look for drooping wings (a bird will move it’s wings away from its body to cool down), lethargy and open beak breathing (or panting). If you see this, take action.  Bring your bird inside and run lukewarm water over him (never use cold water). Soak him right down to the skin and put him in his indoor cage at a comfortable temperature.  Let him dry naturally and watch him to make sure he springs back. Offering cool water and fresh fruit will help to replenish fluids.

Photo by axialmotion.com

It’s not even technically summer yet and it’s already hotter than you-know-where in Florida.  Along with the summer heat comes the insects.  Those of us with birds, pets and children know it’s especially important to reach a solution to these problems that is not toxic to those who might come in contact with it.

If you go to the supermarket, you will find shelves of insecticides and  bug repellents like Off.  Some of these products work really well.  Combat ant traps are great, but  they could also kill your bird should he gets a hold of one. A few years ago, I talked at length with a lady who lost her military macaw after he found one of these ant traps and tore into it like a foraging toy.  It really isn’t worth the risk.

It is wise to use only natural products in any area that your bird might happen into.  Keep in mind that many of the synthetic poisons used in the dangerous products are based on natural remedies.  Manufacturers took the ideas from nature and produced chemicals that get the same job done at a cheaper cost to them.  They are are hazardous to all that come in contact with them, not just the bugs. Recent studies have link Parkinson’s Disease to exposure to these chemicals.  Natural products DO work and I encourage you to give them a try.  The following information will provide you with some great tips on natural and safe remedies:

Photo from www.stat.columbia.edu

Marylin Zelinsjy-Syarto in her website Shelter Pop recommends these organic solutions:

Ants
Most ants can be controlled with homemade bait made from peanut butter (two tablespoons), jelly (two tablespoons) and boric acid (one teaspoon). Put the bait in a small disposable container. To eliminate ant mounds outside, try this trick: Dampen the mounds with water, then pour on baking soda and a bit of white vinegar — the mixture will bubble and kill off the ants.
Mosquitoes
Planting basil outside is known to repel flies and mosquitoes, but there is a new natural repellent with the main ingredient of catnip from Preventive Pest Control, a bug control service with locations nationwide.
Spiders
Spiders can easily be killed with a mixture of water (40 percent), alcohol (40 percent) and dish soap (20 percent). Put the mixture in an inexpensive sprayer and spray on the spider.
Flies
To repel flies, fill a one gallon clear plastic zip top bag less than halfway with water, then hang it near the top of your door, on your railings or from your eaves (you can do this by using duct tape, or, by gathering together and tying the top of the bag with rope, rubber bands or tape and then hooking it gently onto a nail without making a hole in the bag). Flies have compound vision so when they see the water, they will think there are hundreds of flies nearby and they won’t be interested in coming around anymore.
Cockroaches
To control cockroaches, try Niban Bait, made from boric acid (it is available only online at Professional Pest Control Products

Photo by pestcommand.com

The Kitchen Physician at BirdsnWays.com offers this advice:

GENERAL PEST REMEDIES

Diatomaceous earth (DE) can be sprinkled on areas where pests are found. It contains the spent shells of tiny sea creatures that are sharp enough to damage the exoskeleton and cause insects to dehydrate. DE is harmless to humans and animals. Parrots should not breathe the powder as it is being applied in the aviary. One brand available in natural food markets is “Concern” by Necessary Organics.

Neem–the seed kernels of the Neem tree are rich in limonoids, bitter tasting chemicals that effectively block development, feeding and egg laying in many species of insects. The most powerful limonoid (azadirachtin) has been certified by health authorities in the USA and Europe as being non-toxic to birds, animals and humans, but highly effective against insects.

Ivory liquid dishwashing detergent, diluted with water to a 1 to 2% solution, provides insect control on many plants and is easy to mix. Spray plants until they are drenched.

Frogs, spiders, ladybugs, praying mantis, and dragon flies will help to reduce pest populations around the home and garden.

One bat will eat up to 600 mosquitoes, harmful moths and other insect pest per hour at night. Bats do not attack people or harm pets and can be encouraged to inhabit “bat houses” on your property.

FRUIT FLIES

Place some of the birds’ discarded soft food in an open Ziploc bag in the evening. By morning, the bag will be full of fruit flies and can be sealed and discarded.

Place saucers of fragrant wine with a few drops of detergent in areas frequented by fruit flies. They will die happy!

Place fragrant fruit such as mango peels in the bottom of wine bottles. Fruit flies go in and cannot get out. Photo by smosh.com

ANTS

Wash countertops, cabinets, and floor with equal parts vinegar and water to deter ant infestations.

Sprinkle powdered cinnamon on ant trails. Several types of ants will not cross a barrier of cinnamon powder, powdered charcoal, bone meal, talcum powder, or chalk.

Parrot cage legs can be set in shallow pans filled with water–like small moats that ants cannot cross.

Fire ants–Killing the egg -laying queen is the only way to destroy the colony. Choose a day when the ground is dry. Gently sprinkle a teaspoon of instant grits on each fireant hill. The worker ants carry the grits to the queen who eats them. When she drinks water, the grits expand in her stomach and kill her. The remainder of the hill dies within a day.

COCKROACHES

Prevention–Close off all cracks around pipes and electric lines where roaches enter the house. Use cement, screening, or Brillo pads. Caulk small cracks along baseboards, walls, cupboards, and around pipes, sinks, and bathtub fixtures. Seal food tightly. Rinse food off dishes that are left overnight. Do not leave pet food out overnight.

Release small geckos in your home and aviary. Provide dishes of water for them to drink. They will feast upon the roaches at night in the late evening, and sleep out of sight during daylight hours.

Baking soda and powdered sugar mixed in equal parts and spread around infested area is a non-toxic roach killer.

Diatomaceous earth (DE) can be sprinkled on areas where roaches are seen. Parrots should not breathe the powder as it is being applied in the aviary. One brand available in natural food markets is “Concern” by Necessary Organics Inc. SEED MOTHS

Freeze bird seeds if possible to kill larvae and store all food in airtight containers.

Place basil leaves or mint teabags in bags or canisters of bird seed to repel moths.

Instead of using toxic mothballs in clothing storage areas, use whole cloves in cheesecloth or spice bags and hang them in closets or stored bags of clothing.

Place sticky fly strips (without pesticides) into an old bird cage or a closed basket out of the reach of children, birds, and other pets. Make your own sticky paper by boiling sugar, corn syrup, and water together. Spread the mixture on brown paper grocery bags. If a bird accidentally contacts fly paper and gets the sticky goo on its feathers, Citra-solv will safely remove it. Photo by smosh.com

FLIES

To prevent flies, keep garbage containers tightly closed. Sprinkle dry soap powder or flakes into garbage cans after they have been washed and allowed to dry.

In a small glass or jar, pour about one inch of real cider or red wine. Make a cover with saran wrap and a rubber band. Punch about six holes with a bamboo skewer or other shaper object. Flies will crawl in but cannot crawl out.MOSQUITOES

Avoid wearing perfume, bright colors, flowery prints, and bright jewelry as these items attract mosquitoes.

Burn citronella candles to repel insects.

Neem products repel and affect the development of mosquitoes. Two percent Neem oil mixed in coconut oil, when applied to exposed body parts, provides complete protection for twelve hours from bites of all anophelines.MICE

Place instant mashed potato powder or potato eyes (buds) in strategic places with a dish of water close by. After eating the powder or buds, mice will need water. Drinking water causes fatal bloating.

Use “snap traps” inside a box with an entrance hole large enough only for mice to prevent birds and other pets from being injured.

If you have OUTDOOR AVIARIES, you must be careful about the weed killers you use around them as well, especially if you live in an area where it doesn’t rain regularly.  The Avenger from Green Advantage Organics was recommended to me.

These are by no means the only remedies that are safe and natural.  Click here for variations used by readers of the Dollar Stretcher website.

Photo by photographytips.com

Should I use any soap or shampoo when bathing my bird?

-Karen F., Hanover, MA

No. Not only is it unnecessary to use anything but water when bathing your bird, it is counterproductive to a bird’s natural cleansing process.  Most birds have a preen gland (uropygial gland) which is located at the the base of its tail.  When a bird is preening, it pinches this gland which then excretes an oil that is spread throughout the feathers.  This oil gives helps to keep feathers in proper condition.
In waterbirds, the preen gland excretes more oil giving them their waterproofing.  The oils also have anti-parasitic effect, helping wild birds keep lice at bay and an antibacterial effect that keeps down feather degradation. The action of the bird running its beak through the feathers distributes these oils, keeps feathers in position and removes any dirt and debris.
Using soap or shampoos will wash away these oils and the feathers condition will deteriorate. It will also dry out their skin. Itchy birds have been known to pluck.  I know that there are bird “shampoos” on the market, please don’t buy them.  It’s just another way of getting bird owners to spend yet more money, and they will prove to be harmful to your bird.
Bathing your birds often will inspire them to preen and distribute these oils.  I bathe my birds at least three times a week, never less than two. Some birds prefer mist or spray baths others prefer to take a shower in our bathrooms, others still like a nice bowl of cool water to take a dip in.  If your have small birds, try adding some fresh parsley or kale leaves to the water. They love to roll around in the greens.  Be prepared for a mess, though, my quaker can spray water 8-10′ with her little wings!

Take a good look at your parrot. You will notice he has wings. You will see that they, and most of the rest of his body, is covered with feathers of varying length and size. If you were to look inside his body, you would find hollow bones and a unique respiratory system and muscular structure.  All of these things contribute to a single outstanding ability: FLIGHT!
Birds are meant to fly, and I encourage you to let them do that. Flight is what differentiates birds from all other creatures on this earth. It’s what they were born to do and I believe they feel handicapped when it is denied them or when they are scolded for this most natural activity.
I am adamant that it is imperative to a baby bird’s overall and ongoing mental health to be allowed to fledge. Even if the prospective new owner never intends the bird to remain flighted, learning to fly is a necessary exercise in discovery and confidence building. The bird that never brings itself to take that first step off of a solid surface will never reap those benefits of trial and error learning and never experience the joy of that accomplishment. It might go on to be a bird that is insecure and unwilling to explore new things. That first flight is a leap of faith that follows weeks of flapping and testing out its wings with the expectation that they will carry him safely to the ground. Imagine not being allowed to learn that you do have the courage and the skill to make that come to fruition. Imagine having wings and never getting to experience flight.

When I first got Theo, my goffins cockatoo, she was a timid, perch bound little thing who had barbered her wing feathers down to the skin. To my knowledge, she had never taken a single flight in her, then, 22 years. Within a year or so, she had regrown most of her flight feathers and months later took her first leap into the air.  She flew about 6 feet, and landed softly on the floor. The expression on her face was nearly human with her surprise, joy and pride. I will never forget it. Something special happened to her that day and it changed the way she looked at her world. From that point on, she was into everything, sometimes flying there, sometimes climbing.  She developed a keen interest in everything around her, and began acting like a goffins is supposed to.

I am not anti-clipping in cases where where a bird needs to be clipped. My cockatiel, Tinky, was my first bird.  He reached a point in his accident prone life where I felt the need to clip him. Sometime after knocking himself silly by flying into a mirror, he received a nasty concussion when my young daughter accidentally closed his head in the bedroom door as he made an attempt to follow her out of the room.  He recovered, with the help of his vet, but I was still uncomfortable with the idea of clipping his wings and they remained intact.
In the not too distant future were two more separate events that involved him being stepped on and sat on. We decided he needed to be more stationary and out came the scissors. To our great surprise, and dismay, he was still quite capable of flight, just to a lesser extent.
Of course, I know now that Tinky was neither accident prone nor misbehaved.  It was our allowing him free reign of the house that led him to places where injury occured. It is impossible to keep track of every movement they make under those circumstances, and until we learned that lesson well, Tinky would remain at risk or stay clipped.  The arrival of our second cockatiel, DeeDee, helped to keep Tinky in one spot a bit more often with other activities. We adjusted our lifestyle with the birds, imposed more limitations and both are now fully flighted.

Before you clip, think carefully about the emotional impact of grounding your bird. Knowing that they can escape a dangerous or frightening situation if the need arises, or even an interaction that they simply wish not to participate in, gives a bird the room to make choices that bring about trust. You’ve heard the expression Fight or Flight. When the option of flight is removed, sometimes it leaves a wary bird only the option of fighting when it feels insecure.  A bird might be quicker to bite when there are no other options to explore. Trust is gained when you respect and accept their decision to move away.
Sometimes, when a previously flighted bird is suddenly grounded, it can change it’s personality. Aside from feeling insecure, it can become depressed, sometimes lethargic, as if it has lost its zeal for life.  I know some of you are thinking that this may not be such a bad thing for your over-active or nippy birds. It is not a good thing.  Please consider addressing the behavior with training and restrictions before resorting to a clip.

If you do decide to clip, be certain is is done in a humane fashion. The wings should not be so severely trimmed that the bird is unable to glide gracefully to the ground, which will be his first stop following a clipping.  Poorly clipped wings can result in injury to your bird, so let your vet or professional bird groomer handle it until you feel confident in what you are doing.  Start with a light clip.  You can always trim more later if necessary.
NEVER trim a single wing.  A bird’s wings provide overall balance whether it be on the ground or in the air.  This is why they molt and regrow their flight feathers evenly on each side.  Trimming a single wing can cause a bird to perch unevenly, causing pressure sores on its feet which can then develop into skin and bone infections.
Also avoid what is referred to as a “show cut”.  This is when the wings are trimmed leaving the first two feathers on each side intact. Because they now jut out awkwardly, they are easily caught on toys and perches and can cause injury.Your birds appearance is not important. Its safety is.  Most people don’t even notice that a bird is clipped if it is done properly.
There is only one reason to clip your bird’s wings: if the safety of the bird/s or the people in the home are at risk.  If your bird does not seem to get the message after repeatedly flying into windows or mirrors, then a clipping is a good idea.  If your bird is trying to injure a member of the household or another bird, then sometimes clipping is necessary while you assess and gain control of the situation.  It should be done as part of an multi-tiered plan to correct your bird’s behavior and make changes to your own lifestyle. Sometimes a light trim with take the edge off an ill tempered bird by limiting its abilities, while still allowing him flight. This bird will sometimes get the message, but often there are better alternatives to clipping.

5 reasons NOT to clip:

• 1.  Flight gives a bird confidence and keeps it mentally and emotionally balanced. Aside from knowing it can get itself out of harm’s way in a pinch, it is how a bird naturally gets around.  Sure, they can walk and climb, but they are built to fly. Anyone in wheelchair understands what I am saying about the loss of an ability.
• 2.  Given the muscular structure of a bird, flying is the best form of exercise they can get. This is why they flap their wings in their cages.  It probably feels good, but it isn’t enough to keep those muscle toned.
• 3.  A flighted bird can escape to safety in the home, if he finds himself in trouble.  If you have other pets, this is a consideration.
• 4.  If lost outside, an uflighted bird will not have the ability to outfly a predator.  A determined clipped bird certainly CAN fly, and they go up, but seem to be unable or unwilling to come down.
• 5. Your bird will always have the option to choose to avoid an altercation with you by flying away instead of biting.

**NOTE:  Never attempt to fly your birds outside without extensive professional freeflight and recall training.

Hurricane season is beginning here in Florida, and forecasters are predicting an active season.  While I am located in central Florida and don’t expect to see the severe weather the coast might see, hurricanes do, in fact, travel inland. I grew up in the northeast and lived a good part of my life in Chicago so I am accustomed to severe storms and oceans of snow. The south offers some new challenges to which I don’t feel particularly accustomed.  The clouds, both here and in Texas, don’t seem to know how to issue forth a light rain. It comes hammering down in torrents, and adding gale force winds to that scenario just gives me the creeps. And even though I don’t have a lack of heating to contend with during a power outage for most of the year, a lack of A/C is even more dangerous for me and the birds in this climate.

How to prepare:

Have an evacuation plan. What disaster possibilities exist in your area of the world? Tornadoes? Flooding? Fires?  Do you have an escape route planned, and an alternative in the event that your primary route is clogged with traffic?  Can you quickly load your family and pets to an interior room for cover or into a vehicle for a fast getaway?  Do you know where everything you’ll need is?  The key to a successful and safe evacuation lies in your preparation.

It’s a good plan to have a neighbor you can count on if you should ever be trapped away from home. Your neighbor can check in on and feed your birds in your absence.  Be sure he knows where everything is, should he have to evacuate your birds, and give them written permission to have a vet treat them should it be necessary.

What to bring:

• First aid kit
• A travel cage/carrier for each bird – (if you house small birds together, it would be okay to put two together in a travel cage as long as you watch them. A stressful situation can cause longtime cage-mates to fight.)  Pillow cases will work in an emergency.  Bring at least one set of extra dishes per cage/carrier.
• Covers for each cage or carrier – (this allows them privacy and cuts down on their stress.)
• 7 day supply of non-perishable food and fresh water stored in plastic containers (if you bring canned veggies for your birds, don’t forget the can opener!)
• Clean towels
• Any medications and means to administer them (don’t forget about your own!)
• Copies of each bird’s current medical records
• Clear, descriptive photos of each bird, depicting any distinguishing features.  Bring several copies of each.
• Flashlight with extra batteries
• Battery powered radio and/or police scanner
• List of pet-friendly hotels
• Check to see if the refuge/shelter you will be using will accept your pets. Here’s a link to United Animal Nations.
• List of contacts: your vet, your personal physician, emergency contacts and family contacts

What to do before you leave the house:

As you are loading your birds, remember not to place cages close enough together where one bird might injure another.  Sometimes carriers are better than travel cages for this reason. Some of your birds might travel better when covered. Have food and water easily accessible and keep your radio tuned in for weather condition or traffic updates.  Know that where you are headed will accept your birds and other pets.

In the event of an approaching hurricane or storm, you will have some time to plan and take action.  Remove anything from the yard that could be picked up by the wind an hurled into property.  Board up your windows.  Remember to shut off your electricity and gas and water mains. Finally, make sure your doors are locked.

**Note: While you are on the road, if you should happen to come across any dead companion animals, please take the time to stop to photograph them.  Someone out there is searching for their missing pet.  Make note of any distinguishing features and remove their collar for identification and contact information.