When discussing bird toys, there are two very common statements made:  “I don’t give my bird toys anymore, she never plays with them.”  and  “Whenever I get my bird new toys, he just destroys them.”  Do either of these sound familiar?  Read on…

Toys are multi-tasking things. They should be fun, educational, provide challenges and satisfy a bird’s instinctive needs. They are there to fill the void that a caged bird might feel with limited space and social activity. They exist to be chewed on, smacked around, yelled at and reduced to splinters. An utterly annihilated toy, is one that has been most enjoyed.  So, to the guy who laments over his bird’s destroyed toys: well done. You found the perfect toy for your bird!  For the guy whose bird doesn’t play with toys: keep looking!  You just haven’t found what interests her yet.
Toys are there for the use and enjoyment of your bird. While we may think that the giraffe shaped pinata is adorable, your bird may have no interest in that type of toy. I will venture to say that most parrots really don’t care that a toy looks like a monkey or a snowflake. In fact, your bird has no idea what either of those things are. It is the texture and functionality of the toy that interests your bird.  Be careful not to buy the toys that are appealing to only you.
Toys are expensive and it’s hard to be able to afford to experiment with a $40 toy that your bird may not like. Try some things from around the house to test the waters. Here are a few suggestions:

• Offer a paper towel or paper bag. See what she does with toilet paper or paper towel tubes  Your bird might prefer shreddables.
• See how your bird reacts to pieces of an old t shirt or a facecloth. She might like fabric toys .
• Go to Home Depot and buy a couple of small wood scrap pieces from untreated pine 2X4s for the larger birds, and watch the gnawing begin!
• Fold a favorite treat up inside a unwaxed dixie cup to inspire her to learn to forage.  How well she does with this simple forager will tell you if your bird might be ready to try a more sophisticated toy.

Once you get a feel for the types of materials your bird prefers and makes the best use of, look into the different types of toys available that have that composition. Try, also, to get a feel for the activities your bird prefers. My umbrella cockatoo loves to put things inside of other things. Often I find he has jammed bits of wood into any crevices he can find in his cage. I have noticed that he has a longer than typical attention span than most cockatoos when it comes to accomplishing tasks. Puzzle toys are right for him, but he is very particular about the ones he likes.
I had several friends in Austin who own parrots. We had an arrangement for toy swapping so that we could experiment with what our birds liked.  I bought a Rainstick for Linus once. He hated it and actually got angry when he would hear the sounds it made.  I swapped it with an african grey’s owner for a moving parts toy that is now a favorite to Linus.  We would ONLY do this with plastic or metal toys that could be sterilized before passing them from bird to bird. It saved us a ton of money on wasted, unused toys.

Once you decide what your bird’s preferences are, look into these options:

• Foraging toys: Foraging for food is an activity that occupies a great deal of a wild bird’s day. Our companion birds benefit both mentally and physically when we create a foraging environment for them in their cages.
• Puzzle toys:  These are the educational toys. They can keep your bird busy for hours with different tasks.
• Wood/shreddables: Your bird has an innate need to chew. Gouging out a tree cavity or creating materials to line a nest are behaviors performed by your parrot’s wild cousins. This is hard wired into companion parrots as well. Providing toys that satisfy this urge will hopefully make the furniture less appealing.
• Preening toys:  These are great for the bird who would spend hours on your shoulder grooming your hair.  If you suspect your bird is an over-preener, or might be heading in the direction of feather destruction, these types of toys might distract him from that.
• Plastic toys: From pony beads to bullet proof acrylic, things that spin, slide, and speak. These are toys that will last a long time, but are not always the favorite. These are great toys to use in rotation in the cage to offer a variety of activities throughout the month. Since they don’t serve a purpose as far as destructibility goes, they should provide a fun/educational activity instead.

Toys are an essential part to your parrot’s well-being.  Unused toys in the cage are no better than no toys in the cage.  Observation and a little inexpensive experimentation will give the info you need to provide just the perfect ones for your bird.  The pictured toys and more are available at Birdtricks.com.

Photo by Anna Sloan

In keeping in touch with the avian community, I find more and more people who are coping with the heartbreak of their parrot’s feather plucking, barbering or mutilation.  The biggest problem with feather destructive behaviors is that we don’t know why it happens.  There are NO experts in this area, because, frankly, no one understands why they do this. There are people with a great deal of experience with pluckers who can recommend changes to make that they have seen good results with.  But as each bird is an individual, what works for some may not work for others.

Your veterinarian can determine if the cause is medical, this should ALWAYS be the first step you take.  By ruling out health and dietary problems, you can then move safely onto possible environmental causes.  More often than not, it is the bird’s environment that is to blame.

The bird’s environment is  comprised of everything that surrounds it: its cage and what goes into it, the room of the house the bird spends most of its time in (as well as any windows in that room that a bird might  look out of, and in that regard, it also includes the outdoors and any predators that might wander into your yard.)  It includes household noises, ringing phones and the sound of hawks coming from your TV when you are watching the Nature Channel.  It includes every single member of the family, including other pets.

Things in the environment that people often don’t consider are the temperature, the humidity, the amount and duration of light during the day and night, and the energy and activity level in the house.  It sounds like a lot to think about, and it is.

Photo by Anna Sloan

What is feather destruction? There are five main ways that a parrot destroys its feathers, although a creative parrot might find a variation that suits its needs at the time.

• Over preening:  A parrot might “over-work” an area of the body while preening, sometimes causing feather damage or thinning in that area.  This is sometimes a precursor to plucking, but not always.
• Plucking:  This is the removal of the feather.  When a bird continues this practice over a long period of time, the follicles are eventually compromised and new feathers cannot grow back to replaced those that were plucked. When a parrot intentionally pulls out a feather, it is painful and endorphins are released into the blood stream giving the parrot a sense of calm.  It is considered possible that this is the reason some parrots pluck.  Endorphins, like drugs, are emotionally addictive, causing an ongoing cycle.
• Barbering:  this is the destruction of the feather that doesn’t involve its removal.  A parrot might chew at the feathers, destroying them, or might actually bite them off, sometimes down to the skin.  The shafts will eventually fall out during a molt and new feathers will grow in to replace them.
• Rubbing:  This is when a parrot scrapes the feathers from its head and neck using the bars of its cage, perches or toys.  If you have two birds housed together, sometimes one parrot is responsible for the plucking of another.  It’s an odd behavior, and sometimes the plucked bird will stand calmly by while the other plucks him bald.  If your parrot is caged alone and has feather loss in areas that can’t be reached with his own beak, rubbing is probably the cause.  Parrots have been known, also, to remove feathers using their feet.
• Mutilation:  This is the most heart-wrenching behavior of all.  Sometimes plucking escalates into self mutilation and a parrot will attack the skin once the feathers are removed.  Scabs appear over the wounds, which are peeled off, and the wound becomes fresh again, and larger.  There is a constant threat of infection and since the skin of a bird is so thin, healing properly becomes a major issue.

Photo by Anna Sloan

Do wild parrots pluck? This is a hotly debated subject.  I have personally read articles by field researchers stating that they have found some members of flocks that, for whatever reason, appear to have been plucked.  I am unable to relocate these articles, but the Avicultural Society of America has pictures of plucked wild birds in their album.  If I were to make an educated guess, I would say that the reason that for a bald parrot in the wild would be illness or disease.  It doesn’t make sense that a wild parrot would endanger its life by removing the feathers that insulate it and give it flight.  Further, a bald wild parrot might as well paint a target on its chest.  A predator would surely pick him out in the crowd.

However, plucking doesn’t make sense, period, whether a bird be wild or domestic. If it is an emotional issue is causing the plucking, how can we presume that wild parrots aren’t subjected to stresses that might send them over the edge.  For instance, we know that the loss of one’s mate is a traumatic event in a bird’s life and this frequently happens in the wild.  We just don’t know enough about these behaviors to say with certainty that it is exclusive to companion parrots.  I think it is safe to say, though, that it happens FAR more frequently in kept birds.

A study I read recently suggests that plucking may be hereditary.  A parrot with plucking parents, might be predisposed to this behavior.  This is a frightening consideration, given that so many plucked parrots are relinquished as breeder stock.

Photo by Anna Sloan

Is this my fault? We do the very best we can to provide our birds with a large cage, great foods, and loads of entertainment and enrichment.  They know they are loved, and yet, our birds pluck.  We are not parrots, and we are not psychics.  There is NO benefit to blaming yourself, guilt is counterproductive to this problem.  The worse you feel about  it, the more your parrot will pick up on your disappointment, adding another layer to his worries.

Some of the best parrot homes I know of  have faced this problem.  A good friend of mine has taken in many nearly bare parrots and had them feather out under her care.  One of her own flock started plucking this past year.  I also have some friends with mutilators.  They offer the finest care and enrichment to their flocks.  One of my cockatiels has taken to plucking the neck of the other, and Linus, my umbrella, has, on occasion, over preened his chest.  It happens.  Our only recourse is to do whatever we can think of to dissuade the behavior.

Are there any preventative measures I can take? Since we don’t know what causes plucking, your best prevention is in observing your bird and understanding what unnerves her, overstimulates her, or stresses her.  Watch especially for signs of boredom, this is a major factor in many cases.  Get to know what your bird’s threshold for tolerance is. There are some birds that do well in a very active household, others do not.  If you take the time to watch what she’s watching, and observe her reaction to it, it will tell you her level of comfort with it.  Is she watching with playful interest, or concern?  Then make the appropriate changes.

It can’t be definitively said that if your parrot becomes fearful, bored or weary that it will respond with feather destruction, but these things are known contributors to the onset of plucking.  Keep your bird active, mentally stimulated, well fed and comfortable.  These are things we should be doing anyways.

Photo by Anna Sloan

What can I do to stop or alleviate it? Here are some suggestions of things to look for, to do and to try:

See your vet:  Rule out the possibility that there are any medical reasons for your bird’s behavior.  Some vets will prescribe Prozac or other medications for the plucking bird that is not physically ill.  I, personally, am not supportive of this practice unless you have a mutilator and it’s behavior is endangering its life.  While drugging your bird might inhibit or slow the plucking process, it doesn’t speak to the root of the problem. The result is a lifetime of dulling medication for your bird that will ultimately affect its quality of life.  A better plan is to find the problem.  If you do decide to go with medication, please be sure you are doing it for the right reasons.  Talk to your vet about decreasing your birds protein intake.

Change the environment in your house. The first suggestion I have is to reposition the cage.  Sometimes a cage placed too close to a window, near a constantly opening door or under a skylight can be stressful to your parrot.  Windows often let in too much light for the bird’s liking and can leak air that is too hot or cold and drafty.  If you live in an area where there are a lot of hawks, your bird will notice them as they fly overhead.  You probably will not.  Change the lighting as necessary. Your bird will certainly not appreciate a light glaring in its eyes. Look for things that your would normally overlook.  Try to see things from the perspective of your parrot.

Do you have other pets?  Other birds? Children?  Remember that cats and dogs are predatory animals and might be a concern to your bird.  A macaw housed next to the conure might cause distress in the smaller bird.  Small children and teenagers carry their own special energy.  Watch how your birds responds to them and move him to an area where he might feel less threatened.
I know of a couple cases where rearranging the furniture in the living room made the difference.  Since we are willing to try anything to stop this problem, think creatively and don’t make the mistake of assuming that any change is too small or too ridiculous.  They get some funny ideas in their heads about their likes and dislikes.  I actually had to get rid of a new chair I had bought to stop my umbrella cockatoo from screaming well into the night.  When the chair was gone, so was the problem.

Photo by Anna Sloan

Change up the cage. Does your bird have enough toys to keep him mentally stimulated?  Does he like the toys you are providing?  Some birds prefer wood toys, some prefer plastic or shiny things.  Provide your bird with more of the toys he makes the best use of.  Offer lots of shredders.  Some birds will go after their feathers because the need for these toys is not being met.
Foraging toys are designed to keep a bird mentally challenged.  Wild birds spend most of their awake time engaged in this activity, be sure to provide her with this opportunity.  They are easy and inexpensive to make with paper products you have in your home.  Rotate these toys often to keep them fresh and interesting.
Look at the perching in the cage.  Is it appropriate for your species?  Is your bird physically comfortable for daytime play or a good night’s sleep.
Is the water and food you are providing fresh? Are the bowls and cage liners clean?
Change the way you do things. Try giving the bird more out of cage time, or less.  Some birds feel better in the protection of their cage. Change the way you cut its fresh foods and try offering things that have never been tried before. Offer them in new ways, such as on skewers.  Is your bird getting enough sleep?  Try an earlier bedtime for your bird and experiment whether she prefers a covered or open cage at night.  My birds prefer to be covered.  Make sure there is adequate ventilation with the cover on and that her space is quiet and dark.  Improved sleeping conditions can help a lot.  Change up your daily routine and make appropriate changes where you see the need.
Bathe frequently. Itchy, dry skin is sometimes the problem, especially in the winter months. Baths wash away dander and provide humidity that moisturizes the skin.  If the air in your home is dry, look into a humidifier.  Wet birds go into preen mode following a bath. Watch that she isn’t over-preening with the increased bathing.  Try cooling the temperature of the water as well.  Many birds prefer cooler water, my quaker likes it downright cold.

Photo by Anna Sloan

Make more time for your parrot. For the parrot that enjoys fun with the family, try setting up a perch by the sofa so she can join you for popcorn and a movie.  If your parrot likes to go out, take her with you on your errands.  A lot of birds enjoy a ride in the car.  Set a perch up in your office. This is the perfect time to start trick training your bird. A busy parrot has better things to do than pull out it’s feathers and a parrot that has been active during the day will more likely sleep, and less likely pluck at night.
Anti-plucking products. There are products available today, mainly topical sprays, that claim to inhibit plucking.  Their effectiveness is dubious at best.  At worst, they are herbal remedies that are intended to dull the bird’s senses thereby quelling the urge to pluck.  Further, there are ingredients that might have a toxic effect on birds.  I don’t recommend them, and again, urge you to address the problem at its source.
Plucking suits, collars. For the serious plucker, and especially the mutilator, there are a variety of cones and collars available to limit your bird’s access to their preferred areas of plucking.  I know a number of people that have bought or fashioned leather or cloth “suits” for their birds to wear during times of incessant plucking or mutilating. I have a friend that modifies a tube sock with wing holes for her medium sized parrot with a history of mutilation.  She admits, though, that her bird can have it shredded in no time if determined to do so.
These are garments sometimes necessary, but they aren’t intended for lifelong use.  Constant use can irritate the bare skin and cause discomfort as new feathers start to grow in.  Sometimes this simply calls the bird’s attention to the area of concern.  Consult with your vet before you use any products such as these.
Understand your species. Go online and gather as much information about your species of bird as you can find.  Some parrots species tend to be more prone to plucking that others, but no species is exempt.  I recommend that those with pluckers find a sympathetic online bird forum where the problem can be discusses, ideas shared, and up to date information passed along.  You will be amazed with the small, seemingly insignificant things that have turned around the lives of plucking birds and their owner.

Keep a journal. Since tracking events will play a critical role in your progress, I highly recommend that you keep a journal with detailed notes.  I can’t tell you how many times I have referred to my notes to see if a certain behavior was present at this same time last year.  There are many small events that occur that might be a big deal to a parrot.  This is the best way to document them for future reference.

Photo by Anna Sloan

Understand that when your parrot plucks, in the cases where health is not a contributor, it is a response to some outside influence that is beyond its control.  When you buy a parrot and keep it in your home, you take on the responsibility of providing for its every need since it is unable to fend for itself while it is in captivity.

I know of many cases where a plucked parrot is banished to the garage because of its appearance. This is beyond my comprehension. I believe that parrots can feel embarrassed, and they can feel when you are embarrassed for or by them. These are highly intelligent and emotionally complex beings that live with us cooperatively outside of their natural environment.  They are not trophies.

If you have a plucker, I hope that you will find it in your heart to love her all that much more, as she is, and provide for her growing needs.  Instead of feeling embarrassed and disappointed, take her out and show her off.  Not only will she love and benefit from the attention, but you can use this as an invaluable opportunity to educate the public about the needs of parrots.  Let her become an ambassador for her kind.

A plucked parrot can be a happy parrot, especially when you continue to search for the answers to her condition, and find new ways to improve her life.  For those of you doing just that, you have my utmost respect and admiration.

If you choose to smoke, that’s your business and your right.  This post is about secondhand smoke, and how it affects your parrot.

What is secondhand smoke?

Secondhand smoke is the smoke that is emitted from a cigarette, from either the burning end or the filtered end.  It contains thousands of different chemicals that fill the air as either gases or particulates.  Following are facts about secondhand smoke by the National Cancer Institute and the EPA:

* “Secondhand smoke contains over 4000 chemicals, including 69 compounds that are known to cause cancer.  Anyone who breathes secondhand smoke is breathing in formaldehyde, ammonia, cyanide, arsenic, carbon monoxide, methane and thousands of other chemicals.  The concentration of these carcinogenic chemicals is actually higher in secondhand smoke than in the fumes directly inhaled by smokers.”

* “Secondhand smoke is classified as a class-A carcinogen, the same classification given to asbestos.”

Your parrot’s respiratory system.

Your parrot has a very sensitive and intricate respiratory system.  It is quite unlike ours.  Here are some avian respiratory facts:

* Birds have lungs, which are not lobed like our own. They also have air sacs (either 7 or 9, depending on species) which extend into their bones, which are hollow.   This fact makes them lightweight and enables flight.

* Birds do not have a diaphragm.  Air is drawn in and expelled by the contraction of muscles.  Because there is no diaphragm, and the air sacs extend into the bones, respiratory infections also can extend to the abdominal cavity and the bones.

* A bird’s respiration is slower than in mammals of similar size.

* It actually takes two breaths to complete a single respiration cycle and move air through the entire respiratory system.  The second breath pushes the first through to the end of it’s cycle.

* The respiratory system of a bird is more efficient than ours in transferring oxygen.  This means that toxins inhaled are delivered equally as well.   Because of this efficiency, a parrot will succumb to the same level of toxic fumes that would be tolerated by a mammal.

Feather destruction and plucking.

So the math involved here is not hard – the combination of toxic particulates and gases in the air and a dynamic respiratory system are not a good match.  But there’s more, as if that’s not enough… it has been found to be a source of feather destruction and plucking.

Cigarette smoke rises into the air because it’s heated.  When it’s cools, gravity brings it back down.  It lands on your birds, their perches, their cage bars, toys AND food.  If your hands are coated with chemicals from holding the cigarette, it is easily transferred to your bird.  I know of an extreme case where an amazon,  who turned out to be very sensitive to chemical exposure, began mutilating his feet before they determined the cause to be his perches that were covered with residue from cigarette smoke.

When you bathe a parrot that lives in the house with a smoker, the water that rinses off them is often a brownish-yellow color.  Their feathers will pick up the odor and it often stays with them until all feathers have been molted.  A friend who rehomed an african grey from a smoker’s house says that after a year, she is still able to smell the smoke on her parrot, especially when he’s wet.  Other parrots will simply remove the tainted feathers on their own, a habit they may not be able to kick.

Another concern is that where there are smokers, there are nicotine products.  Nicotine poisoning can occur when your parrot finds and chews apart a cigarette like a shredder toy.  The butt of a cigarette alone contains 25% of the nicotine of the original cigarette.  Signs of nicotine poisoning include: twitching, excitedness, panting, salivation, vomiting, increased heartrate, collapse, coma and cardiac arrest.

If you do smoke, please do it outside where the fumes and residue will not affect your parrots or other members of your household, and remember to wash you hands before you interact with them or their belongings.

Outdoor aviaries for your birds will help to alleviate some of the problems and give them plenty of fresh air and natural light.  Covering their cages and playstands while they are outside will help to keep harmful residue from settling on surfaces where they spend their time.  Frequent bathing is a must for your parrot if you are a smoker, and adding a product like George’s Aloe to a spray bottle will help in maintaining feather condition.

Now that you have read about non-food motivators and how to ration them so that you can be the distributor of these rewards, let’s looks at the actual balance required for a healthy relationship.

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Fearful                                       Aggressive

In this range of parrot behavior you can see two polarities of a bird that has an issue with the owner or visitor. But as a parrot owner, you want to find the middle ground. You do not want the bird to be fearful and run/fly away from you but neither do you want it to bite and be aggressive. It is important to find that middle ground without favoring one way or the other.

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Hates                                               Loves

This is the range of love/hate from a parrot and obviously no one want to be hated by their parrot because that will lead to the fear/aggression scale we saw above. So if you find the balance of neither fear nor aggression, you will be out of the hate zone for the parrot. Now the bigger question is where should your relationship fall on the love scale? The obvious answer may seem t0 be 10 out of 10, that you want your bird to be head over heals in love with you. But this may not actually be a healthy relationship because the bird will be so dependent on you that it will get very depressed or out of control in your absence.

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Independent                          Too dependent

So since we are trying to figure out how much you want your bird to love you, let’s consider how dependent the bird should be. If your bird is completely independent, then it wants nothing to do with you because it can sit in its cage on its own and keep itself busy. The other extreme is an utterly spoiled and dependent bird. This is one that will scream or pluck feathers the moment you leave its site. The spoiled bird will be constantly demanding attention and drive you crazy. So a healthier balance is a bird somewhere in the middle. A bird that can keep itself busy but be happy to see you and want to spend some time with you as well. The toy diet I mentioned is a great way to help maintain this balance by keeping the best toys out of the cage. Ignoring screaming and giving your bird independent downtime in the cage are vital components to maintain this balance.

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Can’t pick up                          Can’t keep off

This range sums up the last few quite well. If your bird hates you, is too independent, fearful, etc, you won’t be able to pick it up or take it out of its cage. I know many people have this problem. But on the other hand, many people can’t get their bird off their shoulder or can’t get it back into the cage. Both of these cases are taking things to an extreme and cause problems for the owner and the bird.

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Neglected                                     Spoiled

This final range can shed some light on which way a relationship is being swayed. It is not a good idea to spoil your bird whether it is with toys, food, or attention because it will become too dependent on having that. But of course you do not want to neglect your bird either and leave it bored and under stimulated. This is where you need to find your own routine and healthy balance.

It is necessary to balance the bird’s time out of the cage with time in the cage. If your bird doesn’t like to come out, then vice verse, you have to get it out of the cage some more and get it more used to being out. It is important that the bird has toys in the cage to keep it busy but it should not have too many toys to the point that it would rather stay in the cage than come out. You should feed it a healthy diet and never starve your bird, yet it is necessary to train it when it is hungry and feed it the food it likes best. All of these are elements of a balanced relationship with your bird. Check back to this blog frequently for more tips about maintaining balance with your bird.

Food Diet vs. Social Diets

In the previous two posts, I discussed the types of non food diets that can be used on your bird. Now that you are aware of other ways to ration something your bird wants, you can turn that into a reward and controlling its hand out. In turn, you can use those rewards to motivate your bird to do certain behaviors that you desire.

I would like to outline the difference between food diet and social diets in their practical application and use. The fact is, a food diet is the most concrete, easy to control, and predictable diet that is guaranteed to motivate your bird to learn. This is why the BirdTricks system emphasizes this rationing of food. The food training diet is very effective and will help you get 90% out of your birds motivation.

But what about the other 10%? If you really want to get 100% out of your bird, if you want more than just a bird who will wave/play dead, if you want a well behaved, well vocalized, happy, loving companion for life, you should use the social diets previously outlined. The reduction in daily attention that the bird receives will just make the interaction that it does that much more enjoyable. The limit of number of toys will make new toys all the more exciting. The withholding of petting until a favorable behavior is performed will make the bird learn acceptable behavior.

For every diet (food, social, petting, etc), there is an X amount that your bird needs to satisfy its hunger. This may be (hypothetically) 10 grams of food, 3 hours of attention, and 2x 20 second petting sessions. Any more than this may be bonus or may just be fattening and unnecessary. So for food, you would ration out 1 out of 10 grams to feed exclusively during trick training. For social attention, you would ration 3 out of 24 hours to spend out of the cage with you. Finally you would pet it twice that day when it is sitting quietly on its perch and not flying off.

Sometimes you can emphasize a particularly desired behavior by giving a bigger helping (of whatever diet you are using for that). For instance, I will let my bird stay out of the cage longer when there is company around because she is learning how to behave around strangers and to reward her for being good with other people. This will help the bird remember that other people are good, she gets to spend more time out. My bird has been prone to one-person-bird challenges but by giving her greater petting, attention, etc around other people, she is beginning to look forward to social outings more. As you may have read, I give my bird greater than usual attention when I take it driving or out on trips as a reward for the stress of being in the carrier and traveling. It would not even be possible to reward my bird with a food reward for doing this because she will often be scared and not eat or just eat a normal meal. That extra motivation for being good while traveling comes from all the bonus attention I give to her.

You can only use a particular motivator for as much as the bird wants. You can only feed a bird till it’s full, pet a bird till it’s satisfied, or keep it out of the cage until it’s tired. This is a great reason to use a variety of motivators and diets for your bird because when one runs out, you may still be able to influence your bird by using another. You can also use different types of motivators for different behaviors. A lot of these social motivators are very long term while click/treat is direct. These are both good for their individual purposes. A click/treat is excellent and pin pointing the exact way to hold the foot while teaching the wave trick. On the other hand, there is no real click for sitting on the perch quietly. This is where all of these toys, attention, and petting come in. While you may be able to do 50 repetitions of a particular trick using a food reward, you might only be able to do one or two rewards per day for sitting quietly. But if you do this over a long stretch of time, your bird will realize that actually being calm and quiet earns it attention more reliably than screaming and being a nuisance. In this case, food would not be such a good reward because the bird would not be receiving food for all times it is relaxed and also the bird may still be receiving food when it is rambunctious. But if you are limiting attention, talking, and petting to only a relaxed bird, it will soon catch on. Don’t give your bird food for not doing anything (being calm) because that will hurt your ability to get the bird to do something (a trick). Teaching it to be calm for food will extinguish its desire to try new behaviors that may lead to a trick for food. So reserve those non-food rewards for those calm behaviors and food for teaching tricks.

By rationing and rewarding your bird with everything it wants (and not only food), you can build a much stronger relationship. Not only will your bird learn better behavior but it will also be thrilled because it is receiving all this stuff from you and it knows exactly what to do in order to get it. If you pet the bird randomly, it doesn’t know how to ask. If you pet it when it is calm and well behaved and bends its head over to you, and you pet it, the bird will know what to do.

This all may sound very regimental but really it is quite simple. Give your bird what it wants only if it is giving you what you want. In turn your bird will only give you what you want if you give it what it wants. The bird wants food, you ask it to do a trick, it does trick, you give it a seed. If the bird does the trick wrong, you do not give it the seed. Apply the same thing to something like petting/attention. If the bird is sitting calm/quiet/relaxed you can talk to it, give it attention, pet it. If the bird is running around and screaming, you ignore it. So just remember, never to give the bird anything that it wants if it is going to be used to reinforce undesirable behavior but to hold it off until the bird is doing what you want.

Conclusion

A real “training diet” should actually be rationing everything that your bird enjoys and not just food. This way you always have something that the bird will try hard to earn from you. Whether that is food, attention, being left alone, time out of the cage, time in the cage, toys, vocalization, petting, training, or just playing together, you have full control over how much of that your bird can get. If you leave your bird always wanting more, you have the power to influence your avian friend about proper and improper behavior. If you give your bird too much, your bird will feel like it doesn’t have to listen to you. If you don’t give enough, your bird will be lonely, upset, and neglected. Finding the proper balance is key to a healthy owner to bird relationship. And it is this balance that will be the subject of the next article in this series about the healthy balance for birds.

Natural sunlight varies as seasons progress and ebb.  It is the intensity and duration of light that tells a bird that it is breeding season, and when to molt – it regulates it’s cyclical clock and adjusts metabolism. Ultraviolet light strengthens the immune system and works with the glandular system in the synthesis of vitamin D, which through a series of processes, increases calcium absorption.  This means healthier and stronger bones and beaks, and improved feather production.  Additionally, a bird’s vision and perception is dramatically enhanced.  Our parrots can see into the near ultraviolet range. This gives them the ability to, for instance, to see colors that we cannot, and to see things from a different perspective than we do.  In the wild, it is how they select mates and identify other flock members, and predators.  It assists in their search for food. Have you ever been outside with your parrot, when she suddenly cocks her head to the side and stares upward in horror at something that is a mere black speck in the sky to you?  She has likely identified a hawk.

Birds love the sunshine. Linus would spend all day outdoors if he could.

Natural sunlight is the best thing for our parrots. But it is impractical (and often unsafe) to roll their cages outside each day to give them this advantage.  Being in tuned with the seasons makes for a more psychologically well-balanced bird.  The health benefits are many. As 90% of the sun’s beneficial near ultraviolet rays are filtered out through modern window glass (even aluminum screening will filter out 30% or more), simply placing the cage by the window is ineffective. The next best thing we can offer as an alternative is full spectrum (FS) lighting in our indoor cage areas.

What is FS (full spectrum) lighting?

Full spectrum is a term that is used in the marketing of bulbs that replicate natural sunlight.  It radiates near ultraviolet light that, while not equal in quality to sunlight, it is the best artificial light that we have at this time and is very effective.

Where can I buy these bulbs and which ones are the best?

FS bulbs are available in many pet stores and online.  They come in two varieties: tubes that vary in length (like the ones you might have at work and bulbs like the high-efficiency bulbs we have at home (the curly ones).  The tube bulbs require fixtures that hold those particular bulbs in a length equal to the length of the bulb you are purchasing (usually 24″ or 48″) and the screw in bulbs will fit into any regular lamp base.

Some brand names are Vita Lite, Chroma, BioLight and Lumichrome.  The bulbs, to be effective,  should have a CRI (color rendition index) of 90 or more, and a color temperature of 5000k or more. Be sure to get bulbs specified for avian use.  Reptile have different lighting requirements.  Logic tells me that the tube bulbs would distribute light more broadly and would be a better choice.  If you elect to go with the screw in bulbs, I would consider using two of them.

If you get a parrot cage by cages by design, their cages come with full spectrum lighting.

Where do I place the lighting in the room and how long do I keep it on?

To maximize the benefits of FS lighting, the bulbs need to be placed about 12″ to 18″ from the cage. The heat generated by these bulbs is minimal and it won’t cause overheating. Try to place them over the top of the cage (if there’s a tray covering the top, you can either remove it or angle the light in from the highest possible point). Since we are trying to duplicate nature, shoot for high-noon.  Put the lights on a timer that will turn them on at sunrise and off at sunset, or as close to that as you can to work within your schedule.  Remember to adjust the timer to mimic the seasonal sun.

As I was doing research for this, I learned that my own lighting system is inadequate in one room. I need to add at least two more light sources to fully cover the needs of all the cages.  Hopefully, one day, I will have the outdoor aviaries I’ve always dreamed about and FS lighting will no longer be an issue.