Photo by Jamieleigh
Location: RV
Shown: Galah “Bondi” wrapped in towel ready to receive medication

If you missed the entry on our first vet visit, read about it here.

And if you live near Roanoke, Virginia and are in need of a fantastic avian vet, exotic vet, or just regular cat/dog type vet, please look up Dr. Paul Stewart. He is amazing, dependable, and affordable and way over qualified for anything you might need.

A couple days before Dave and I would be driving up to Virginia from Florida, I talked with Dr. Stewart and asked which birds needed to be brought back and the verdict was all of them except Jinx. Jinx, our blue throated macaw, was thought to have a tiny piece of metal in his stomach from the looks of his x-ray  but when it was thoroughly tested we found it was nothing at all and it had been the only concern with Jinx so he got to stay home on this trip.

We’ve had a stroke of bad luck with our main truck lately, it actually broke down 3 times in the last month and a half so we decided it was no longer dependable. It’s the truck that pulls our bird trailer, and we just couldn’t risk getting stranded in the cold with our birds so we traded it in for a new truck but the new one isn’t quite equipped with all the towing stuff we need it to be for the size of our bird trailer and how much it weighs on its own… so long story short, we took our 10 foot trailer instead for our trip.

Photo by Jamieleigh
Location: Orlando, FL
Shown: Camelot macaws “Comet” & “Tusa”

It’s not as comfy for the birds, and we haven’t used it in years so it went into quick drop off repairs before our trip. We packed food, water, toys, travel cages and one larger white cage that we keep in that trailer anyway for our two macaws. We secured it down to the trailer and used bungees and clamps for the other travel cage that held our three medium sized parrots.

Our first day we took off around 7am from Florida and made it to our friends’ place in Virginia by 11pm. We stopped to conduct a freeflight call with our latest Freestyle Flyer Student (our freeflight course) making us a little later in the day.

When we arrived in Virginia we moved all the birds into the house in a separate room and they were fed and watered a few gas stations prior. We took them all out, watered them again and everyone went straight to sleep. 7am the next morning rolled around very early. Our birds were used to much more sleep, and I knew they’d be testy once we got to the vet’s office which was a 1.5 hour drive for me that morning.

I dropped everyone off at the vet’s office at 8:30am, and came back for them a little before 2pm with tons of great news from the vet.

Photo by Jamieleigh
Location: Orlando, FL
In travel cages: Congo african grey “Cressi”, Galahs “Bandit” & “Bondi”, Camelot macaw “Comet”

First thing was, everyone looked in optimal health since being home for 30 days (off the road) and the vet told me whatever I was doing with their diet to keep on it. Cressi (our african grey) showed no signs of any trouble with her kidneys while Rocko showed the same signs and looked great. We had his blood drawn for iron levels as toucans often die from too much iron and it’s good to have a baseline on your birds of where there levels are when they’re healthy.

Photo by Jamieleigh
Location: Orlando, FL
Ready for travel: Camelot macaws “Comet” & “Tusa”

Both Comet and Tusa had what our vet called “White Coat Syndrome” which just made me laugh… especially since this vet clinic has everyone wearing blue coats! Basically, white coat syndrome means your bird gets stressed and uneasy at the sight of a “white coat” or “vet”. And immediately their levels sky-rocket. Our macaws had very high white level counts which means they could be hiding illness which is what we wanted to be sure of. Tusa had been on the changes of a booster and Rain which had done wonders during his molt making his feathers come in beautifully, especially on his head where he practically looked bald before. All the levels were normal this time around, and the vet had waited a couple hours of the birds being there and hanging out before he tested them to make sure their emotional states were not heightened.

It worked! And the boys checked out beautifully.

Bandit’s levels were tested as he had shown very small beginning signs of fatty liver as a possibility so with the change of diet for the last 30 days we wanted to see the difference it all made. (We’ll hear more on any test results, and later for ones that were sent out, likely 10-14 days).

Bondi’s legs had approved as far as her picking at them, but under her wings had gotten worse at home. It seemed to calm down once her yeast went away (which the vet also confirmed, that the yeast infections in both our girls Bondi and Cressi was gone) but then her picking under the wings got worse after a couple days of the yeast medication being done. Because of this, the vet took 8 skin biopsies. He took 3-4 from places she was picking, and 3-4 from places that she was not and could not possibly reach to test her skin and see if anything might be irritating her and causing itchiness. The couple days before we left for the appointment he suggested using the Rain on her picked areas to see if that would help. We had only had the chance to use it once before we left, but definitely plan to implement it more for all our birds around 3 times per week.

Photo by Jamieleigh
Location: Waynesboro, VA
Pictured: Biopsy spot on galah “Bondi”

The size of the biopsies was about the size of the “pore” so to speak of the feather. The size of a feather coming in is what was taken. Usually when birds have this done they have to wear a neck thingy that is a sponge-y foam type thing. Luckily, Bondi didn’t bother with her biopsy spots and didn’t need to wear it, though Dr. Stewart did send us home with it just in case she began to for any reason.

We were very thrilled at all the positive feedback from the vet – the days at home seemed to do wonders for the birds’ health, especially in our ability to optimize their diet. We have to give a great deal of credit to that to Patty for researching what’s perfect for kidneys and livers and exactly what the birds would be needing. We cut back on giving fruit a ton to our birds, and stuffed them with colorful veggies. We bought wheatgrass by the bagful at Whole Foods and cooked beans for the weeks to come and mixed it with tons of  healthy stuff. We ended up writing tons of our own recipes and were very excited about all of it. We didn’t feed a single nut or seed to any of our birds, just really focusing on the healthy foods they needed.

Photo by Jamieleigh
Location: Waynesboro, VA
Shown: Galah “Bondi”

With Rocko we also optimized his diet as he showed beginning signs of something being wrong with his kidneys. While traveling we could always get watermelon and blueberries and blackberries, but he wasn’t liking the store-bought blackberries after having them fresh from Chet’s house. He also needed better foods like banana, sweet potato, papaya and mango… which were foods we had a hard time coming by in our travels.

Back at home we were able to get him everything he needed and he was loving the different methods we would experiment with when it came to feeding time.

Needless to say, we are ALL benefiting from being off the road for a while. And we’ll be putting together our original recipes for all of you to benefit from too. We always include original recipes in our promos (so far Halloween and Christmas) so be on the look out for those because right now it’s the only place to get them! Today I talked to the vet about any results that already came back, and every single bird of ours is back to normal and optimal health all around. We were able to take Bondi off every single medication except her anti-biotic which is just for 4 days to make sure no infections happen to her biopsy spots, and then she stays on her supplements like sunshine factor and her booster. Other than that, her liver shows great now and we are very excited about it. We’re waiting to hear about what the biopsy results are but until then, everyone seems in optimal health and life off the road is fan-freaking-tastic as far as our birds are concerned!

King O photo from www.bestfriends.org

When I have asked bird owners what initially attracted them to parrots, they usually say it is their beauty and grace. Birds are visually stunning. It is impossible for that not to be the first thing we notice about them. It is only once we really get to know and understand them that that their vibrant personality outshines their briliant appearance. We are taken with their extreme intelligence and the profound connection that has developed.  Then we are whipped.

I am always saddened when I hear from an owner whose bird has begun feather destructive behaviors. Once medical possibilities have been ruled out, it is heartbreaking to imagine that your bird has been so emotionally distraught in it’s environment that it would resort to these measures. Unfortunately, many owners feel a lot of guilt.

Sometimes the cause of the upset can be found within the birds immediate surroundings, and sometimes the problem is so internalized that it is only known to the bird. We rearrange the furniture, re-outfit the cage and adjust the diet and hope we hit upon something that will make life more settled for the parrot. Usually, should we be lucky enough to find the cause, it is too late. For reasons that no one can be 100% certain of, the plucking often continues even once the source of the problem is eliminated. Eventually the folicles in the skin become too damaged for feathers to regrow, and we have a bird that is, to many people’s way of thinking, ugly.

To my way of thinking, these birds have a special kind of beauty. When you strip away the outer layer that attracts the eye, what is inside can more easily shine through. A plucked bird can live a happy, healthy and enriched life – if you allow it to.

King O photo from www.bestfriends.org

Meet ducorps cockatoo, King O, a resident at Best Friends Animal Society in Kenab, Utah. King O (originally named Ophelia until he was determined male) plucked out his feathers with his feet following the death of his owner. He has become something of a star at his new home and in the avian community. It is impossible not to grin as you watch the his videos, like this one, posted on his own facebook page. This is a bird who truly enjoys his life.

If your bird is plucked, it is likely that you care more about it than he does. Try not to feel embarrassed by his appearance, and if you carry guilt, let it go. It is pointless for you to assume blame for something unforeseen and impossible to understand. There are NO experts in this area. No one fully understands why birds do this.  We can only scramble to try to find a solution when it happens.

However, if you let him suffer a lack of socialization and deny him happy outings because you find it uncomfortable to answer questions about why he looks the way he does, that fault is yours. I’m sure that if you search your heart you will find that you love your bird as much as you did before he lost his feathers, maybe even more.

Military Macaw

When discussing bird toys, there are two very common statements made:  “I don’t give my bird toys anymore, she never plays with them.”  and  “Whenever I get my bird new toys, he just destroys them.”  Do either of these sound familiar?  Read on…

Toys are multi-tasking things. They should be fun, educational, provide challenges and satisfy a bird’s instinctive needs. They are there to fill the void that a caged bird might feel with limited space and social activity. They exist to be chewed on, smacked around, yelled at and reduced to splinters. An utterly annihilated toy, is one that has been most enjoyed.  So, to the guy who laments over his bird’s destroyed toys: well done. You found the perfect toy for your bird!  For the guy whose bird doesn’t play with toys: keep looking!  You just haven’t found what interests her yet.
Toys are there for the use and enjoyment of your bird. While we may think that the giraffe shaped pinata is adorable, your bird may have no interest in that type of toy. I will venture to say that most parrots really don’t care that a toy looks like a monkey or a snowflake. In fact, your bird has no idea what either of those things are. It is the texture and functionality of the toy that interests your bird.  Be careful not to buy the toys that are appealing to only you.
Toys are expensive and it’s hard to be able to afford to experiment with a $40 toy that your bird may not like. Try some things from around the house to test the waters. Here are a few suggestions:

• Offer a paper towel or paper bag. See what she does with toilet paper or paper towel tubes  Your bird might prefer shreddables.
• See how your bird reacts to pieces of an old t shirt or a facecloth. She might like fabric toys .
• Go to Home Depot and buy a couple of small wood scrap pieces from untreated pine 2X4s for the larger birds, and watch the gnawing begin!
• Fold a favorite treat up inside a unwaxed dixie cup to inspire her to learn to forage.  How well she does with this simple forager will tell you if your bird might be ready to try a more sophisticated toy.

Cockatiel

Once you get a feel for the types of materials your bird prefers and makes the best use of, look into the different types of toys available that have that composition. Try, also, to get a feel for the activities your bird prefers. My umbrella cockatoo loves to put things inside of other things. Often I find he has jammed bits of wood into any crevices he can find in his cage. I have noticed that he has a longer than typical attention span than most cockatoos when it comes to accomplishing tasks. Puzzle toys are right for him, but he is very particular about the ones he likes.
I had several friends in Austin who own parrots. We had an arrangement for toy swapping so that we could experiment with what our birds liked.  I bought a Rainstick for Linus once. He hated it and actually got angry when he would hear the sounds it made.  I swapped it with an african grey’s owner for a moving parts toy that is now a favorite to Linus.  We would ONLY do this with plastic or metal toys that could be sterilized before passing them from bird to bird. It saved us a ton of money on wasted, unused toys.

Military Macaw

Once you decide what your bird’s preferences are, look into these options:

• Foraging toys: Foraging for food is an activity that occupies a great deal of a wild bird’s day. Our companion birds benefit both mentally and physically when we create a foraging environment for them in their cages.
• Puzzle toys:  These are the educational toys. They can keep your bird busy for hours with different tasks.
• Wood/shreddables: Your bird has an innate need to chew. Gouging out a tree cavity or creating materials to line a nest are behaviors performed by your parrot’s wild cousins. This is hard wired into companion parrots as well. Providing toys that satisfy this urge will hopefully make the furniture less appealing.
• Preening toys:  These are great for the bird who would spend hours on your shoulder grooming your hair.  If you suspect your bird is an over-preener, or might be heading in the direction of feather destruction, these types of toys might distract him from that.
• Plastic toys: From pony beads to bullet proof acrylic, things that spin, slide, and speak. These are toys that will last a long time, but are not always the favorite. These are great toys to use in rotation in the cage to offer a variety of activities throughout the month. Since they don’t serve a purpose as far as destructibility goes, they should provide a fun/educational activity instead.

Toys are an essential part to your parrot’s well-being.  Unused toys in the cage are no better than no toys in the cage.  Observation and a little inexpensive experimentation will give the info you need to provide just the perfect ones for your bird.  The pictured toys and more are available at Birdtricks.com.

Cockatoo

Photo by Anna Sloan

In keeping in touch with the avian community, I find more and more people who are coping with the heartbreak of their parrot’s feather plucking, barbering or mutilation.  The biggest problem with feather destructive behaviors is that we don’t know why it happens.  There are NO experts in this area, because, frankly, no one understands why they do this. There are people with a great deal of experience with pluckers who can recommend changes to make that they have seen good results with.  But as each bird is an individual, what works for some may not work for others.

Your veterinarian can determine if the cause is medical, this should ALWAYS be the first step you take.  By ruling out health and dietary problems, you can then move safely onto possible environmental causes.  More often than not, it is the bird’s environment that is to blame.

The bird’s environment is  comprised of everything that surrounds it: its cage and what goes into it, the room of the house the bird spends most of its time in (as well as any windows in that room that a bird might  look out of, and in that regard, it also includes the outdoors and any predators that might wander into your yard.)  It includes household noises, ringing phones and the sound of hawks coming from your TV when you are watching the Nature Channel.  It includes every single member of the family, including other pets.

Things in the environment that people often don’t consider are the temperature, the humidity, the amount and duration of light during the day and night, and the energy and activity level in the house.  It sounds like a lot to think about, and it is.

Blue and Gold Macaw

Photo by Anna Sloan

What is feather destruction? There are five main ways that a parrot destroys its feathers, although a creative parrot might find a variation that suits its needs at the time.

• Over preening:  A parrot might “over-work” an area of the body while preening, sometimes causing feather damage or thinning in that area.  This is sometimes a precursor to plucking, but not always.
• Plucking:  This is the removal of the feather.  When a bird continues this practice over a long period of time, the follicles are eventually compromised and new feathers cannot grow back to replaced those that were plucked. When a parrot intentionally pulls out a feather, it is painful and endorphins are released into the blood stream giving the parrot a sense of calm.  It is considered possible that this is the reason some parrots pluck.  Endorphins, like drugs, are emotionally addictive, causing an ongoing cycle.
• Barbering:  this is the destruction of the feather that doesn’t involve its removal.  A parrot might chew at the feathers, destroying them, or might actually bite them off, sometimes down to the skin.  The shafts will eventually fall out during a molt and new feathers will grow in to replace them.
• Rubbing:  This is when a parrot scrapes the feathers from its head and neck using the bars of its cage, perches or toys.  If you have two birds housed together, sometimes one parrot is responsible for the plucking of another.  It’s an odd behavior, and sometimes the plucked bird will stand calmly by while the other plucks him bald.  If your parrot is caged alone and has feather loss in areas that can’t be reached with his own beak, rubbing is probably the cause.  Parrots have been known, also, to remove feathers using their feet.
• Mutilation:  This is the most heart-wrenching behavior of all.  Sometimes plucking escalates into self mutilation and a parrot will attack the skin once the feathers are removed.  Scabs appear over the wounds, which are peeled off, and the wound becomes fresh again, and larger.  There is a constant threat of infection and since the skin of a bird is so thin, healing properly becomes a major issue.

Male Eclectus Parrot

Photo by Anna Sloan

Do wild parrots pluck? This is a hotly debated subject.  I have personally read articles by field researchers stating that they have found some members of flocks that, for whatever reason, appear to have been plucked.  I am unable to relocate these articles, but the Avicultural Society of America has pictures of plucked wild birds in their album.  If I were to make an educated guess, I would say that the reason that for a bald parrot in the wild would be illness or disease.  It doesn’t make sense that a wild parrot would endanger its life by removing the feathers that insulate it and give it flight.  Further, a bald wild parrot might as well paint a target on its chest.  A predator would surely pick him out in the crowd.

However, plucking doesn’t make sense, period, whether a bird be wild or domestic. If it is an emotional issue is causing the plucking, how can we presume that wild parrots aren’t subjected to stresses that might send them over the edge.  For instance, we know that the loss of one’s mate is a traumatic event in a bird’s life and this frequently happens in the wild.  We just don’t know enough about these behaviors to say with certainty that it is exclusive to companion parrots.  I think it is safe to say, though, that it happens FAR more frequently in kept birds.

A study I read recently suggests that plucking may be hereditary.  A parrot with plucking parents, might be predisposed to this behavior.  This is a frightening consideration, given that so many plucked parrots are relinquished as breeder stock.

Parrot

Photo by Anna Sloan

Is this my fault? We do the very best we can to provide our birds with a large cage, great foods, and loads of entertainment and enrichment.  They know they are loved, and yet, our birds pluck.  We are not parrots, and we are not psychics.  There is NO benefit to blaming yourself, guilt is counterproductive to this problem.  The worse you feel about  it, the more your parrot will pick up on your disappointment, adding another layer to his worries.

Some of the best parrot homes I know of  have faced this problem.  A good friend of mine has taken in many nearly bare parrots and had them feather out under her care.  One of her own flock started plucking this past year.  I also have some friends with mutilators.  They offer the finest care and enrichment to their flocks.  One of my cockatiels has taken to plucking the neck of the other, and Linus, my umbrella, has, on occasion, over preened his chest.  It happens.  Our only recourse is to do whatever we can think of to dissuade the behavior.

Are there any preventative measures I can take? Since we don’t know what causes plucking, your best prevention is in observing your bird and understanding what unnerves her, overstimulates her, or stresses her.  Watch especially for signs of boredom, this is a major factor in many cases.  Get to know what your bird’s threshold for tolerance is. There are some birds that do well in a very active household, others do not.  If you take the time to watch what she’s watching, and observe her reaction to it, it will tell you her level of comfort with it.  Is she watching with playful interest, or concern?  Then make the appropriate changes.

It can’t be definitively said that if your parrot becomes fearful, bored or weary that it will respond with feather destruction, but these things are known contributors to the onset of plucking.  Keep your bird active, mentally stimulated, well fed and comfortable.  These are things we should be doing anyways.

Sun Conure

Photo by Anna Sloan

What can I do to stop or alleviate it? Here are some suggestions of things to look for, to do and to try:

See your vet:  Rule out the possibility that there are any medical reasons for your bird’s behavior.  Some vets will prescribe Prozac or other medications for the plucking bird that is not physically ill.  I, personally, am not supportive of this practice unless you have a mutilator and it’s behavior is endangering its life.  While drugging your bird might inhibit or slow the plucking process, it doesn’t speak to the root of the problem. The result is a lifetime of dulling medication for your bird that will ultimately affect its quality of life.  A better plan is to find the problem.  If you do decide to go with medication, please be sure you are doing it for the right reasons.  Talk to your vet about decreasing your birds protein intake.

Change the environment in your house. The first suggestion I have is to reposition the cage.  Sometimes a cage placed too close to a window, near a constantly opening door or under a skylight can be stressful to your parrot.  Windows often let in too much light for the bird’s liking and can leak air that is too hot or cold and drafty.  If you live in an area where there are a lot of hawks, your bird will notice them as they fly overhead.  You probably will not.  Change the lighting as necessary. Your bird will certainly not appreciate a light glaring in its eyes. Look for things that your would normally overlook.  Try to see things from the perspective of your parrot.

Do you have other pets?  Other birds? Children?  Remember that cats and dogs are predatory animals and might be a concern to your bird.  A macaw housed next to the conure might cause distress in the smaller bird.  Small children and teenagers carry their own special energy.  Watch how your birds responds to them and move him to an area where he might feel less threatened.
I know of a couple cases where rearranging the furniture in the living room made the difference.  Since we are willing to try anything to stop this problem, think creatively and don’t make the mistake of assuming that any change is too small or too ridiculous.  They get some funny ideas in their heads about their likes and dislikes.  I actually had to get rid of a new chair I had bought to stop my umbrella cockatoo from screaming well into the night.  When the chair was gone, so was the problem.

Macaw

Photo by Anna Sloan

Change up the cage. Does your bird have enough toys to keep him mentally stimulated?  Does he like the toys you are providing?  Some birds prefer wood toys, some prefer plastic or shiny things.  Provide your bird with more of the toys he makes the best use of.  Offer lots of shredders.  Some birds will go after their feathers because the need for these toys is not being met.
Foraging toys are designed to keep a bird mentally challenged.  Wild birds spend most of their awake time engaged in this activity, be sure to provide her with this opportunity.  They are easy and inexpensive to make with paper products you have in your home.  Rotate these toys often to keep them fresh and interesting.
Look at the perching in the cage.  Is it appropriate for your species?  Is your bird physically comfortable for daytime play or a good night’s sleep.
Is the water and food you are providing fresh? Are the bowls and cage liners clean?
Change the way you do things. Try giving the bird more out of cage time, or less.  Some birds feel better in the protection of their cage. Change the way you cut its fresh foods and try offering things that have never been tried before. Offer them in new ways, such as on skewers.  Is your bird getting enough sleep?  Try an earlier bedtime for your bird and experiment whether she prefers a covered or open cage at night.  My birds prefer to be covered.  Make sure there is adequate ventilation with the cover on and that her space is quiet and dark.  Improved sleeping conditions can help a lot.  Change up your daily routine and make appropriate changes where you see the need.
Bathe frequently. Itchy, dry skin is sometimes the problem, especially in the winter months. Baths wash away dander and provide humidity that moisturizes the skin.  If the air in your home is dry, look into a humidifier.  Wet birds go into preen mode following a bath. Watch that she isn’t over-preening with the increased bathing.  Try cooling the temperature of the water as well.  Many birds prefer cooler water, my quaker likes it downright cold.

African Grey Parrot

Photo by Anna Sloan

Make more time for your parrot. For the parrot that enjoys fun with the family, try setting up a perch by the sofa so she can join you for popcorn and a movie.  If your parrot likes to go out, take her with you on your errands.  A lot of birds enjoy a ride in the car.  Set a perch up in your office. This is the perfect time to start trick training your bird. A busy parrot has better things to do than pull out it’s feathers and a parrot that has been active during the day will more likely sleep, and less likely pluck at night.
Anti-plucking products. There are products available today, mainly topical sprays, that claim to inhibit plucking.  Their effectiveness is dubious at best.  At worst, they are herbal remedies that are intended to dull the bird’s senses thereby quelling the urge to pluck.  Further, there are ingredients that might have a toxic effect on birds.  I don’t recommend them, and again, urge you to address the problem at its source.
Plucking suits, collars. For the serious plucker, and especially the mutilator, there are a variety of cones and collars available to limit your bird’s access to their preferred areas of plucking.  I know a number of people that have bought or fashioned leather or cloth “suits” for their birds to wear during times of incessant plucking or mutilating. I have a friend that modifies a tube sock with wing holes for her medium sized parrot with a history of mutilation.  She admits, though, that her bird can have it shredded in no time if determined to do so.
These are garments sometimes necessary, but they aren’t intended for lifelong use.  Constant use can irritate the bare skin and cause discomfort as new feathers start to grow in.  Sometimes this simply calls the bird’s attention to the area of concern.  Consult with your vet before you use any products such as these.
Understand your species. Go online and gather as much information about your species of bird as you can find.  Some parrots species tend to be more prone to plucking that others, but no species is exempt.  I recommend that those with pluckers find a sympathetic online bird forum where the problem can be discusses, ideas shared, and up to date information passed along.  You will be amazed with the small, seemingly insignificant things that have turned around the lives of plucking birds and their owner.

Keep a journal. Since tracking events will play a critical role in your progress, I highly recommend that you keep a journal with detailed notes.  I can’t tell you how many times I have referred to my notes to see if a certain behavior was present at this same time last year.  There are many small events that occur that might be a big deal to a parrot.  This is the best way to document them for future reference.

Cockatiel

Photo by Anna Sloan

Understand that when your parrot plucks, in the cases where health is not a contributor, it is a response to some outside influence that is beyond its control.  When you buy a parrot and keep it in your home, you take on the responsibility of providing for its every need since it is unable to fend for itself while it is in captivity.

I know of many cases where a plucked parrot is banished to the garage because of its appearance. This is beyond my comprehension. I believe that parrots can feel embarrassed, and they can feel when you are embarrassed for or by them. These are highly intelligent and emotionally complex beings that live with us cooperatively outside of their natural environment.  They are not trophies.

If you have a plucker, I hope that you will find it in your heart to love her all that much more, as she is, and provide for her growing needs.  Instead of feeling embarrassed and disappointed, take her out and show her off.  Not only will she love and benefit from the attention, but you can use this as an invaluable opportunity to educate the public about the needs of parrots.  Let her become an ambassador for her kind.

A plucked parrot can be a happy parrot, especially when you continue to search for the answers to her condition, and find new ways to improve her life.  For those of you doing just that, you have my utmost respect and admiration.

Blue and Gold Macaws

If you choose to smoke, that’s your business and your right.  This post is about secondhand smoke, and how it affects your parrot.

What is secondhand smoke?

Secondhand smoke is the smoke that is emitted from a cigarette, from either the burning end or the filtered end.  It contains thousands of different chemicals that fill the air as either gases or particulates.  Following are facts about secondhand smoke by the National Cancer Institute and the EPA:

* “Secondhand smoke contains over 4000 chemicals, including 69 compounds that are known to cause cancer.  Anyone who breathes secondhand smoke is breathing in formaldehyde, ammonia, cyanide, arsenic, carbon monoxide, methane and thousands of other chemicals.  The concentration of these carcinogenic chemicals is actually higher in secondhand smoke than in the fumes directly inhaled by smokers.”

* “Secondhand smoke is classified as a class-A carcinogen, the same classification given to asbestos.”

Congo African Grey Parrot

Your parrot’s respiratory system.

Your parrot has a very sensitive and intricate respiratory system.  It is quite unlike ours.  Here are some avian respiratory facts:

* Birds have lungs, which are not lobed like our own. They also have air sacs (either 7 or 9, depending on species) which extend into their bones, which are hollow.   This fact makes them lightweight and enables flight.

* Birds do not have a diaphragm.  Air is drawn in and expelled by the contraction of muscles.  Because there is no diaphragm, and the air sacs extend into the bones, respiratory infections also can extend to the abdominal cavity and the bones.

* A bird’s respiration is slower than in mammals of similar size.

* It actually takes two breaths to complete a single respiration cycle and move air through the entire respiratory system.  The second breath pushes the first through to the end of it’s cycle.

* The respiratory system of a bird is more efficient than ours in transferring oxygen.  This means that toxins inhaled are delivered equally as well.   Because of this efficiency, a parrot will succumb to the same level of toxic fumes that would be tolerated by a mammal.

Congo African Grey Parrot

Feather destruction and plucking.

So the math involved here is not hard – the combination of toxic particulates and gases in the air and a dynamic respiratory system are not a good match.  But there’s more, as if that’s not enough… it has been found to be a source of feather destruction and plucking.

Cigarette smoke rises into the air because it’s heated.  When it’s cools, gravity brings it back down.  It lands on your birds, their perches, their cage bars, toys AND food.  If your hands are coated with chemicals from holding the cigarette, it is easily transferred to your bird.  I know of an extreme case where an amazon,  who turned out to be very sensitive to chemical exposure, began mutilating his feet before they determined the cause to be his perches that were covered with residue from cigarette smoke.

Galah

When you bathe a parrot that lives in the house with a smoker, the water that rinses off them is often a brownish-yellow color.  Their feathers will pick up the odor and it often stays with them until all feathers have been molted.  A friend who rehomed an african grey from a smoker’s house says that after a year, she is still able to smell the smoke on her parrot, especially when he’s wet.  Other parrots will simply remove the tainted feathers on their own, a habit they may not be able to kick.

Another concern is that where there are smokers, there are nicotine products.  Nicotine poisoning can occur when your parrot finds and chews apart a cigarette like a shredder toy.  The butt of a cigarette alone contains 25% of the nicotine of the original cigarette.  Signs of nicotine poisoning include: twitching, excitedness, panting, salivation, vomiting, increased heartrate, collapse, coma and cardiac arrest.

If you do smoke, please do it outside where the fumes and residue will not affect your parrots or other members of your household, and remember to wash you hands before you interact with them or their belongings.

Outdoor aviaries for your birds will help to alleviate some of the problems and give them plenty of fresh air and natural light.  Covering their cages and playstands while they are outside will help to keep harmful residue from settling on surfaces where they spend their time.  Frequent bathing is a must for your parrot if you are a smoker, and adding a product like George’s Aloe to a spray bottle will help in maintaining feather condition.

Now that you have read about non-food motivators and how to ration them so that you can be the distributor of these rewards, let’s looks at the actual balance required for a healthy relationship.

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Fearful                                       Aggressive

In this range of parrot behavior you can see two polarities of a bird that has an issue with the owner or visitor. But as a parrot owner, you want to find the middle ground. You do not want the bird to be fearful and run/fly away from you but neither do you want it to bite and be aggressive. It is important to find that middle ground without favoring one way or the other.

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Hates                                               Loves

This is the range of love/hate from a parrot and obviously no one want to be hated by their parrot because that will lead to the fear/aggression scale we saw above. So if you find the balance of neither fear nor aggression, you will be out of the hate zone for the parrot. Now the bigger question is where should your relationship fall on the love scale? The obvious answer may seem t0 be 10 out of 10, that you want your bird to be head over heals in love with you. But this may not actually be a healthy relationship because the bird will be so dependent on you that it will get very depressed or out of control in your absence.

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Independent                          Too dependent

So since we are trying to figure out how much you want your bird to love you, let’s consider how dependent the bird should be. If your bird is completely independent, then it wants nothing to do with you because it can sit in its cage on its own and keep itself busy. The other extreme is an utterly spoiled and dependent bird. This is one that will scream or pluck feathers the moment you leave its site. The spoiled bird will be constantly demanding attention and drive you crazy. So a healthier balance is a bird somewhere in the middle. A bird that can keep itself busy but be happy to see you and want to spend some time with you as well. The toy diet I mentioned is a great way to help maintain this balance by keeping the best toys out of the cage. Ignoring screaming and giving your bird independent downtime in the cage are vital components to maintain this balance.

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Can’t pick up                          Can’t keep off

This range sums up the last few quite well. If your bird hates you, is too independent, fearful, etc, you won’t be able to pick it up or take it out of its cage. I know many people have this problem. But on the other hand, many people can’t get their bird off their shoulder or can’t get it back into the cage. Both of these cases are taking things to an extreme and cause problems for the owner and the bird.

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Neglected                                     Spoiled

This final range can shed some light on which way a relationship is being swayed. It is not a good idea to spoil your bird whether it is with toys, food, or attention because it will become too dependent on having that. But of course you do not want to neglect your bird either and leave it bored and under stimulated. This is where you need to find your own routine and healthy balance.

It is necessary to balance the bird’s time out of the cage with time in the cage. If your bird doesn’t like to come out, then vice verse, you have to get it out of the cage some more and get it more used to being out. It is important that the bird has toys in the cage to keep it busy but it should not have too many toys to the point that it would rather stay in the cage than come out. You should feed it a healthy diet and never starve your bird, yet it is necessary to train it when it is hungry and feed it the food it likes best. All of these are elements of a balanced relationship with your bird. Check back to this blog frequently for more tips about maintaining balance with your bird.