Military macaw

The average parrot spends the majority of his time in his cage while his humans are at work or away from home. To keep our birds mentally stimulated and physically healthy we must provide an environment that offers entertainment and promotes activity.This means toys, toys and more toys.

The toys we put in our bird’s cages have multiple functions. They are there not only to entertain, but to teach new activities and to satisfy innate urges, such as chewing. I can always get a sense of the mental health of a particular bird based on the level of abuse it appears his toys have endured.  A bird that does not have the means to occupy it’s time will improvise – perhaps with plucking or screaming.

Just as important as providing toys is the need to see that the ones you offer are safe. Toys should be thoroughly inspected before they are placed in the cage. Be certain that there are not pointed parts that might injure your bird during active play. Make sure the toys are size-appropriate for your species of bird. Toys that are meant for smaller birds sometimes get hung up on the talons of larger birds, and toys meant for macaws might have crevices that are just wide enough to trap a budgie leg or head.

When you aren’t able to personally inspect toys before you purchase them (such as in the case of online orders) be sure to choose toys from a reputable source. Most of the online toy sites I order from really personalize their service and will talk to you about your concerns and make recommendations. Some places will even custom make toys for birds with specific needs. .

Once you have found the perfect toys (and toy provider), your vigilence should not end there. Toys that are most loved are subjected to some serious wear and tear and you will have to be continually watchful for signs of potential dangers as they are broken down from use. Not only are broken toy parts a choking hazard, but as parts on hanging toys are destroyed and fall away from the central chain or rope, it leaves open the danger of hanging or entanglement. When a toy looks like it has outlived its usefulness, it’s time to remove it from the cage before it becomes life threatening.

Camelot macaw

I frown upon toys made of fabric more and more with each passing year. There are more deaths and injuries resulting in amputations coming from the use of these toys than any others. The problem is that cloth frays as it is manipulated and leaves long hanging threads in which toes, feet, wings and necks can become entangled. Unfortunately, most parrots love to play with fabric.

A Facebook fan recently posted about a friend’s tragic experience when a conure hung itself on excess fray from a cloth toy. She urged us to make everyone aware of the dangers. To that, I want to reiterate that anything that falls in a long strip is a hanging threat, whether it be fibers, rawhide or chains. We can’t be around to protect our birds 24/7, nor can we deny them things to play with because we fear a potential for harm. What we can do is always be on top of the condition of the toys that are present in the cage and remove them before they pose a danger.

Mitred conure

As a human being, I have witnessed, and experienced, how seriously a lack of confidence can hold a person back in life. The belief that one is not up to a challenge or living in fear of possible failure can be debilhitating, and the result can be a life of missed opportunities.

Any intelligent being that has the ability to weigh up a decision also has the capacity for doubt. Doubt can be useful in keeping oneself safe -  when the odds aren’t in your favor, sometimes a risk is not worth taking. However, doubt is sometimes directed inwardly, where it is not the circumstances that make one uneasy, but the questioning of one’s own ability to make a sound decision or to successfully complete a task. Lack of self confidence is a fear of oneself, and often it is in our own best interest to push ourselves to confront the things that make us uncomfortable, or even afraid, so that we might live a more fulfilling life..

Blue and gold macaw

Many captive birds live very structured lives. We feed them and provide them with forms of entertainment. We decide the convenient times for out of cage play. We put them to bed when we are ready to settle down for the evening. There is little decision making in their lives. They have few experiences where they are naturally inclined to learn through trial and error. Without life lessons, they will continue to be wary and avoid stepping outside the box. Experience breeds growth and without it, there is fear of the unknown.

I believe that many of the phobias our birds experience are rooted in a lack of confidence that has resulted in fear.Your bird’s level of self confidence will impact all of the most important areas of his life from his interactions with humans, to his use of the toys that your provide, to his willingness to eat the foods that are good for him.

Blue and gold macaw

There are three critical parts to creating an environment that will build a bird’s confidence:

• 1) Allow your bird plenty of experiences in life. The most confident birds invariably are the ones that are the most experienced: a bird well socialized to humans, a bird that is not over-protected and sheltered from life, a bird whose life that is not made simple because we perceive them as simple creatures. Try not to think in terms of making life “easy” for your birds. Instead, look to making it interesting. The more experiences a bird has that have a positive outcome, the less wary it will be when approaching new things.
• 2) Allow your bird opportunities to learn. Many of the toys available today rely on the need to develop a skill.  Foraging toys require that a bird mentally calculate a series of moves that will allow them access to the food inside. Puzzle toys, or toys with moving parts, will teach a bird that: “if I do this, that will happen.” It is important to note that they will play with, even labor over, these toys even without a food motivator. This fact will tell you how important mental engagement is to a bird. They will work for food, but they will also work to learn. Confidence grows as a bird overcomes each hurdle and completes each task.
• 3) Teach your bird to play independently. Your bird should be happy at play when it’s inside it’s cage or on a playstand without your involvement. You should encourage independent play even when you are at home and available to your bird. This will increase the understanding that independent play is expected and that your presence in the house does not automatically mean that your bird will be spending time with you. It will learn how to productively occupy it’s own time. When a bird lacks the confidence to engage in activities separately from its owner, it will become increasingly dependent on your in all areas.

Rosebreasted cockatoo

As your bird matures, the combination of its experiences will determine its demeanor. The more you broaden your bird’s boundaries of discovery, the more adaptable it will become. You will find yourself with a bird that is comfortable, confident and eager to explore what the world has to offer.

Camelot macaws

I keep in contact with people from a number of bird rescues. I am friends with some on Facebook and I make sure to keep them in my feed so that I have a daily reminder of all the homeless birds out there. I see many more coming into these facilities than I see going out.

As I scout around the internet, I am alarmed by questions such as: “I just got a sun conure. What do I feed him?” REALLY?? You brought a bird into your home without a clue what he eats?? That seems unfathomable to me.  Know that my gripe is not with the uneducated owner, but with the person selling the bird who allowed the uneducated owner to leave the premises without any knowledge of what they were doing.

I understand how this happens at pet stores. Pet stores are in the retail business, not the animal welfare business. It simply so happens that the products they are selling are alive and intelligent, and have needs. It’s about money. I doubt a shoe salesman gives a second thought as to the well-being of the sandals he sold earlier in the week. “I sure do hope she is coordinating them with her handbag!”

Military macaw

I make it a point to pull and read pet store pamphlets on bird ownership, should they supply them. In them, is information on general care and maintenance – similar to the manual for my blender. While some of them mention that if needs are not met, problem behaviors might erupt, they fail to mention WHY these behaviors exist or what to do when they happen. I don’t expect much more than this from a pet store. They are running a business, selling stuff. It’s is a deterrent to sales to warn the buyer that the product might become undesirable. Don’t buy your pets from pet stores.

I hear, however, the same questions about general care coming from people who have purchased birds from a breeder. This infuriates me. How can you let a bird that you have raised from the egg go home with someone who does not understand their dietary needs and emotional complexities.You are sending this bird off to a miserably inadequate life or an untimely death, in some cases. SHAME ON YOU.

I would make a lousy breeder, in terms of any financial success. I would be denying purchases to people left and right, if I was able to part with my babies at all. If anyone well qualified did come to me for a bird, I would probably refer a person like that to a rescue because it’s the right thing to do. I would find myself out of business quickly.

Rosebreasted cockatoo

In purchasing a rescue bird, there is a qualification process where an applicant might find themselves referred to a bird that was not their first choice. A responsible rescuer might find that the potential new owners lifestyle, home environment or an inability to give a certain level of care might not be the best for a particular bird.

For instance, someone with young children and other pets might not make the best home for a bird that is easily stressed. Nor would a rescuer place a bird with ongoing medical needs into a home where finances didn’t allow for vet care. In all cases, the responsible rescuer will not let any bird out of sight without the necessary education in bird care. Some of the bigger rescues offer classes in bird care to the public and it is a requirement that you attend one before you rehome any of their birds.

Hyacinth macaw

Is it unreasonable to expect the same from a breeder? I know most breeders can’t deliver education in a classroom setting, but there is, in every case, the opportunity for one on one training, even if it’s done over the phone. The average person does not know where to go for information on something as precise and specific as bird care. No human being should EVER be permitted to walk away with a pet bird without the following:

• A complete species specific guide about the bird they have chosen, such as typical personality traits, levels of activity, style of play, known health propensities, and inclination toward behavioral problems.
• A list of the physical needs of the bird, such as proper caging, accessories, toys, and warnings about toxins and other household dangers.
• A complete description of species specific dietary needs. When to feed, how much to feed and a complete list of safe, unsafe and unpreferred foods.
• An awareness of the extreme intelligence of birds and the responsibility to nurture that intellect with appropriate toys and interaction. It should be made clear what behavioral problems might stem from any neglect in this area.
• A description about the wild counterparts of their chosen species that includes information about their diet, habits, breeding cycles, how the flocks interact socially with an explanation of how these behaviors correlate to captive birds.They should be encouraged to continue exploring their species as new information is always surfacing.
• A guide to recognizing sign of illness in a bird.
• A list of preferred local avian vets, boarders and groomers.
• A list of internet links to reputable forums where a buyer can go for help and support with behavioral, dietary or other issues.

Budgies

This wouldn’t be too difficult for breeders to do. Most breeders specialize in just a few species of birds which would only require adapting information to each of the species. I, personally, would have buyers read this information in my presence and have them sign something stating that they read and understood the information. Pet store could and should do the same.  Don’t you agree?

Rosebreasted cockatoo

Q: Yesterday I was in a parrot shop and the owner suggested that there are actually preferable ways to layout a birds cage.  Is this true?
- Michelle Rae & Cheeky

A: There are definitely preferred ways to set up your bird’s cage and there are many considerations to take into account. The most important aspects of your bird’s inside-the-cage environment are safety, security, opportunities for physical activity and the provision of engaging mental stimulation for periods of confinement. A cage should never be set up to suit the aesthetic wants of the owner. It must provide for your bird’s needs factoring in the following:

PHYSICAL AND MENTAL STIMULATION:
I find one of the hardest things to communicate to a soft-hearted bird owner is that, as much as we want to make life the ultimate in comfort and ease for our companion parrots, it is not a good idea.
I have asked many people to go outside and witness the activity levels of the wild birds in their yards. Birds are seldom still. They are hopping and climbing from branch to branch even when it seems without purpose. Whether they are flying, playing or foraging, they are in perpetual motion. We have to provide for and encourage this same level of activity for our birds inside (and out of) their cages.
For this reason, if you have a parrot that has a favorite perching spot and rarely ventures to the other side of the cage, you will want to put his food and entertainment in a spot where he must climb or fly to it. If the built in feeding stations in the cage don’t allow for this, get dishes from the pet store that attach to the cage bars and allow placement where it will most benefit your bird. Any trainer will assure you that birds enjoy working for their meals.

Blue fronted amazon

Try to remember, also, that there doesn’t need to be a perch near every destination spot in his cage. I try to place some favored toys in areas that are difficult to get to with the idea of increasing the physical challenge. Once there, your bird will need to grasp of the bars in order to play with the toy, all the while stretching and reaching. Your bird will not think you are mean and inconsiderate if you do this. In fact, this challenge will be a source of mental stimulation for your bird as well as helping to keep him physically fit. Convenience breeds laziness.
If you have a handicapped or geriatric bird, cage perching can be placed in a way that encourages activity at a different level. A friend who takes handicapped birds into her rescue builds padded ramps and other clever devices that keep the birds moving and striving towards some goal.

Blue throated macaw

SAFETY:
Toys and perches should be placed keeping in mind your bird’s wingspan. Caged birds often flap their wings vigorously inside their cages as a form of exercise and to expend excess energy. Some smaller birds will fly from location to location in their cages. There should be spaciousness inside the cage allowing this activity without there being a concern for injury.
Bird cages, in general, are not well designed. Most cages are taller than they are wide, and since birds typically prefer higher perching, there is a great deal of wasted space toward the bottom.Try to utilize this space by bringing preferred toys and foods to lower levels. Climbing is great exercise.
I hope it goes without saying that EVERYTHING that goes into your bird’s cage should be investigated from a safety standpoint. If it looks like it might pose a danger, it does.

SECURITY:
The cage is your bird’s home. Unfortunately, it is wide open on all sides, providing little privacy and virtually no hiding places for a prey animal. Think about that. A creature that has the innate understanding that he is considered lunch by another creature will have the tendency to be in high alert mode always. Some birds take this more seriously than others. For those in my flock that might overreact to the goings on in the house, I provide a place for them to retreat to when they feel stressed. This can be in a covered corner of the cage or behind a large toy. It’s up to you to understand your particular bird’s needs in that area.

Bluethroated macaw

OTHER CONSIDERATIONS:
The locking mechanism on my quaker’s feeder doors no longer work. In order to avoid an escape, I have chained them shut (which has actually opened up some cool toy hanging possibilities). Quakers are notoriously known for their cage territorialism, especially during the spring and fall. This means that I run the risk of being nipped when I reach into the cage, even when delivering the yummiest treats. I have placed a food bowl on the inside of the door so that I can open the door and put the bowl in the ring from outside the cage. This has saved us both a lot of aggravation.
With that same idea in mind, people that have trouble retrieving their birds from the cage might consider putting a perch on the door. The bird can be targeted to the perch and the door opened, so that the step up will actually take place outside of the cage.
Finally, common sense will tell you not to place a perch above anything you do not want to be soiled, such as food and water dishes or toys that cannot be washed, such as shredders.

Military macaw

You can always tell where your bird’s favorite settling spots are. They will always right above the biggest piles of poop. Try to lure your bird away from these places with fun activities and food. Make sure the path to these things requires climbing or flight. Humans are not the only species to get lazy and overweight! Your bird will be much healthier as his activities increase and his time will be better occupied.

Blue and gold macaw

The coconut is another of natures little miracles. It is used both as food and for its curative properties in all cultures around the world. It is revered in many religions.
It is high in protein, calcium and fiber, contains vitamins C and E and is an excellent source of minerals. It is used to treat stomach, intestine and urinary ailments. It regulates blood pressure and decreases the risk of heart attack. It softens the skin, hair (and feathers!) and topically it can be used to treat burns and wounds. And it makes wonderful bird toys.
How To Open:
I think the one thing that causes us to shy away from the coconut is its rock hard outer layer. Before I learned how easy it actually is to crack one open, I always felt like mother nature was watching from somewhere and snickering at my efforts. It can be a maddening procedure, and messy, until you learn how to do it properly.

Photo by birdscomfort.com

There are several methods to opening and each one will get the job done. You can select which one works best for you.
If you want to make a toy for your birds that contains the meat, you may want to simply crack it open with the back of a heavy knife, such as a cleaver, until it breaks in half. This video will demonstrate this method. Scoring the shell first with the blade of the knife will make that job a bit easier and is likely to create more uniform pieces, if that’s important to you.

Another easy method is to drain it and pop it into a 250 degree oven and bake for an hour. You will know it is done when you can hear the insides move when you shake it. Score the outside and crack it open.The heat will often crack the shell and do the work for you. One benefit to this method is that the meat pulls away from the shell for easy removal and can then be frozen, grated or served in chunks. Another is that the shell will be free of any contaminates following the cooking procedure.

Coconut eyes

I think there is less mess involved when you drain the coconut of water before you break it open. To do this, locate the “eyes” of the coconut, which are the three depressions on one end of the shell. Punch holes into at least two of them with a nail, knife or corkscrew and let it drain over a bowl. Save the water to make coconut milk, which you do in the blender by pureeing the water with chunks of flesh taken from inside the coconut. You can add hot water to thin the mixture if necessary. Your birds will love the milk as much as the flesh.

Photo by petsmart.com

Making Toys:

The shells of coconuts have great potential for creating a variety of toys. You can drill a hole into the pieces and hang them with the meat attached to make a food toy. Or you can remove remove the flesh and put the two halves back together again with a chain running through the center to create a great hanging forager for your birds. If your shell breaks into many pieces when you open it, you can drill a hole in each piece, string it onto different lengths of ropes with knots at the end and attach all pieces to a quick link to create one big fabulous toy that your bird can chew, preen and climb.

Blue fronted amazon

Q: I will be bringing home my first bird, an amazon, in a few weeks and want to get a cage ready for him now.  I want it to be perfect.  How do I know what perches and toys are right?

Lillian G,  Las Vegas, NV

A:  Since many parrots spend the majority of their time in their cages while their owners are at work, it really does have to be as close to perfect as we can make it.  The two main factors to consider are safety and comfort for your bird.

Blue fronted amazon

Choosing the right cage

The cage you select needs to be the appropriate size for your bird. Bigger is always better. The wingspan of the average amazon is about 15 or 16 inches. Your bird needs to be able to fully extend his wings and turn in all directions with inches to spare between him and his toys and perches. This will give him ample space to flap his wings boisterously without injury. The bars spacing should be about 3/4″ – 1″.

If you spare no expense in buying the right cage now, it will last the duration of your bird’s long life. This can be quite an expense, but if you consider the number of years your bird will occupy it, it is a good investment to get a high quality cage.
Stainless steel cages, in my opinion, are the best out there, but there are some fine powder coated cages as well.  Avoid cages made in China, as those manufactured there are testing with high percentages of lead and zinc in their powder coating. These substances are highly toxic to birds. Choose a reputable manufacturer that will stand behind their product.

Blue mutation yellow crowned amazon

Correct perching

I usually set up my cages with one long main perch that goes from one side of the cage to the other and several smaller perches of varying size and texture. A parrot’s toes should wrap 3/4 of the way around it’s perch when it is the right size.
For your parrot to have good foot health, there needs to be a variety of diffent shapes and sizes for him to stand on. This allows him to stretch and exercise his feet properly. My favorite perches are those made from natural branches because they characteristically vary in width and shape. Other perches to consider are cement and sandy perches or those made of rope and fiber (comfy perches). Place them at the feeding stations and throughout the cage at different heights.
I also use corner shelves in many of my cages. This gives them the opportunity to stretch their feet out on a flat surface when desired. This is also where one of my cockatoos keeps many of his important treasures like foot toys and chunks of wood.

Pinata toy from birdtricks.com

How many toys…?

Different birds like different toys. Parrots are very tactile and texture seems to play a big role in their likes and dislikes. If you are purchasing from a good breeder, where a bird might have some exposure to a variety of toys, ask what he has shown interest in. Pet stores are not good at providing any toys for their birds and will likely not have a clue what your bird likes.  I would recommend investing in a single toy of several types at the beginning.
A shredder, like a raffia pinata, a toy made of wood parts, and a well constructed colorful plastic toy that has a function, such as moving parts, are good places to start. Birds are also very fond of paper products and something simple like a paper plate wound into the cage bars can be a great toy. Take notice of what interests him and go from there.

There is no law that says that you must have the cage for your new bird jam packed with tons of  toys and perches. In fact, I think it’s a better idea to have the only the basics when you first bring home a new bird. Too many “things” might unnerve a timid spirit. Your bird will spend his first several days observing his new environment more than actively investigating it anyways. You can add things as time passes and you have a better feel for what your parrot might enjoy as you get to know him and as he begins to feel more at ease and show his personality.

Blue fronted amazon

It is important for your parrot to feel secure and happy in his new home. However, a happy bird is an active and mentally challenged bird. While you want him to have all the “creature comforts” that he deserves, remember not to make things too easy for him. Create a cage environment that makes him work a bit to get around. Climbing the bars of the cage to go from one favorite spot to another will give him needed exercise. Amazons can be prone to obesity and the more movement his day requires, the less likely he will be to turn into an overweight perch potato.
Always think safety first in any item that you purchase for your parrot, but especially for inside the cage, where he will often not be supervised.