Considering Cockatoos, part 2

If you’ve done any reading about pet parrots, you’ve likely run across warnings about cockatoos, most likely warning you away from getting one of these birds. The truth is cockatoos probably are some of the most difficult parrots to have as pets. They’re prone to behaviors that don’t lend themselves well to life in a human household, such as screaming, biting and tearing stuff up. On the other hand, this is true as well: Cockatoos can be fine pets when they are raised and cared for properly. While the same can be said about any parrot, it’s especially true about a cockatoo, because when he isn’t given what he needs, the chances of him becoming a well-mannered, easy-going member of the family are not good. It’s more likely the family ends up getting rid of the cockatoo because they can’t deal with the frustrating situations that keep popping up as often as the bird raises his crest.

What should a potential cockatoo owner be concerned about? Getting a hand fed bird? Purchasing a baby as opposed to an older bird? Buying from a breeder? Buying from a pet store? Buying an unweaned baby? So, what difference does any of this stuff make?

In the long run, these aren’t the main issues to worry about. The majority of parrots are handfed (in the U.S., at least), so the odds are this isn’t even up for debate. Getting an older bird doesn’t mean you’re automatically dealing with someone’s unfixable mistakes. Breeder vs. pet store may not matter all that much because there are good birds and “bad” birds to be found from both sources. And lastly, buying an unweaned baby does not mean your cockatoo will bond with you more and be a better pet. It really shouldn’t even be considered by 95% of future cockatoo owners, and that’s all I’m gonna say about that for now.

What does matter in the long run is early socialization and training, and continued socialization and training. Put simply, what is done for the bird when he is young, and what is continued for him for the rest of his life. Mis-steps in either of these can result in an unhappy owner and an even unhappier cockatoo. It’s possible to correct for a poor upbringing. However, it may be more than most people are prepared to do. It’s also possible to do almost everything wrong once you get your bird home and still wind up with a nice cockatoo. Possible, but certainly not probable. They aren’t dogs. Their default mode isn’t “man’s best friend”.

One of the biggest determinants of whether or not you have a good cockatoo experience lies, for the most part, in something that’s out of your hands. This means that you will want to put as much thought into where you get that cockatoo as you did when you decided to get a cockatoo in the first place. You’re trusting that the person raising your bird does the right things. You’re trusting that your bird will come to you with the experiences he needs to fit right into your home.

What are those experiences? He should know the basic skills of “up” and “down” (very important for birds whose feet appear to be made of Velcro). He should be provided a variety of mental and physical activities for his ever-busy mind and body. He should enjoy a variety of foods. He should have limits imposed on him, and respond well when those limits are enforced. And finally, he should have been given a balance of attention and affection along with a sense of independence. These are the important aspects of proper cockatoo socialization and training that will help this wild animal adapt better to living in a captive environment.

Key cockatoo socialization and training terms are “boundaries” and “balance”, and also “constant” and “consistent”. As in, you have to be constant and consistent with the boundaries and balance that should already be set in place. If not, you risk a constant and consistent struggle as your cockatoo’s instincts take over and he pushes past his boundaries, unbalancing your household. These instincts, when expressed within reason, are what make him an engaging and interesting pet in the first place. After all, cockatoos should be lively and loving. But spoiled, bossy, needy cockatoos aren’t engaging. They’re exhausting. Avoid that exhaustion by making sure that before you choose your cockatoo, he’s getting the right start, and you’re able to keep it all going.

This article has been written by professional parrot behavior consultant Kim Bear who consults with the clients of Birdtricks.com

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3 Responses to “Considering Cockatoos, part 2”

  1. Natalie Butler Says:

    I hope more potential cockatoo owners will heed your warnings before adopting a cockatoo into their family. Many people have no idea what they will be getting into. We have an umbarella who is now 6 years-old…we have 5 children with 3 still living at home. We brought our cockatoo home at 6 weeks old and she is such a wonderful addition to our family. I will say though…had we not researched and done our homework and raised her correctly from the beginning we too could have had a terror on our hands…she definitly will try us from time to time but never have I regretted having her.

  2. Jennifer Blair Says:

    Very informative but too late for me. I love my ‘too. and he is a second hand parrot. Spoiled? Yes. How do I unspoil him is the question. Safe baby toys, lots of cardboard boxes and mess keep him entertained most of the time. New activities help. Please keep this information coming.
    Thanx

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