How to get parrot to stop screaming
There's nothing more annoying than a screaming
parrot -- nothing!
That mind numbing screeching, or squaking,and no
matter what you do, never seems to stop. Annoying
screaming comes in as the second biggest reason
people get rid of their parrots... second only to
biting.
In my best selling DVD training course, I spend
a LOT of time talking about one of the greatest
ways to stop screaming, and it's helped hundreds
of my customers get their parrots to finally put
a cork in it.
But in this newsletter issue I want to tell you
about a new technique that is working wonders on
how to get parrot to stop screaming.
This method deals with NEGATIVE reinforcement:
Most people think negative reinforcement is
punishing a bird for his bad behavior, and they're
right. A perfect example of the WRONG way to use
negative reinforcement would be to spray your bird
with water, or throw a rolled up sock at his cage
if he starts to scream. And here's why that's the
WRONG way to use negative reinforcement...
Because the bird sees you throw the object at him,
or sees you swat him, or sees you yell at him to
"SHUT UP!"
Thus the bird DIRECTLY associates his punishment
with you, it's owner, and ends up becoming fearful
of you and less trusting.
So the trick is to use negative reinforcement in
a way that DOESN'T leave your bird associating his
punishment with you, or other members of your
family.
In fact ideally, you want the bird to think he
caused himself to be punished.
A perfect example of this would be if a cat hopped
up on your counter and walked accross your hot
stove.
Upon touching the stove, the cat would be burned
badly enough so that he probably would never go
near that stove top again. And if he burned
himself twice, my bet is he wouldn't come within
10 feet of that stove for the rest of his life.
Now you wouldn't do this on purpose, but it serves
as a perfect example of how a behavior was trained
using negative reinforcement without leaving the
animal with a personal grudge against it's
owner. The punishment was given, and the cat
doesn't have anyone to blame but himself, or the
stove. (which is a key point to remember)
So the goal is to recreate that situation, in a
MUCH more mild form that doesn't harm your bird,
but scares, or startles him slightly when he's
in the act of screaming.
Just like the cat who's not very excited to singe
his little paws on that hot stove a second time,
you can get a parrot to realize that every time
he screams he causes a negative experience to
happen; an experience that happens whenvever
he screams with you in the vicinity. But to do this, it
needs to be done in a way that your bird doesn't
suspect you're the one giving him the negative
experience.
I first learned this technique when my father
got all pissy at our Golden Retriever puppy when
I was a child... threatening to give it up to
the pound if I didn't train him to behave better.
So I ordered some training guides from an
infomercial and put them to use.
These training guides used negative reinforcement
exclusively, but in a way that didn't leave our
dog mad at us for distributing his punishement.
And while today I think there was a lot wrong
with that course I bought, I like to think you
can take something from it.
So I started brainstorming how to give parrots
a negative punishment discretly.
I thought the best way would be to use a loud
startling noise maker, that could be set off
the second a parrot screamed -- causing the
parrot to be startled, and stop screaming.
I'd been toying around with the idea and talking
about it with a few people, when one of my clients
actually put it to use and reported back on this
method's amazing success on his Umbrella Cockatoo.
Here's how he did it:
This client happened to keep his parrots in
an empty garage. It was a nice garage and had
been a nice bird room. And here's the key point
about this garage...
... It still had working garage door openers, that
could automatically open his loud, grinding garage
doors, whenever he wished, with a button.
This noise always startled the bird, but not in
a way that would send him thrashing and lashing
in panic accross his cage. Instead he'd just
stiffen up and hold onto his cage bars tighter --
the perfect amount of negative reinforcement.
And here's the best part.
This owner's cockatoo would constantly scream for
his owner's attention. And the neigbors were starting
to get a bit pissy about it!
So he decided to reward his cockatoo every time
he screamed -- with a scary garage door. (but perfectly
harmless, and NOT associated with the owner)
Each time the cockatoo would scream, the owner
(who would carry the garage door opener on his belt
while in his house) would simply tap the garage
door openerbutton, which opened the garage, startling
the parrot, who would then stop screaming!
And what happened over time, is that the owner trained
his parrot to think that every time his parrot screamed, the
garage door would open....training it in such a way that did not
leave the parrot resentful of its owner.
Because the parrot thought he caused the scary
thing to happen resulted in. . .
The parrot stopped screaming, because he didn't like
the scary garage to open anymore.
It's a beautful technique that I suggest you apply
to your parrot if he has a screaming problem.
But PLEASE use some discretion.
I don't want the thousands of people reading this
email to all go pluck their parrots from the
environment they're comfortable in, and stick them
in a garage.
Your garage might not be a SAFE place for your parrot.
There may be gas fumes, it may be too drafty, or too
cold etc.
Instead, take the principal and get creative.
And for Gosh sakes, DO NOT go OVERBOARD on this.
I don't want to hear through the grapevine that a
bunch of peole are firing up chain saws next to
their birds cages, and doing stuff that terrifies
their parrots.
You only need to STARTLE your parrot... not scare
the wajeebeez out of him. So please be smart about
this, and if in doubt, don't do it.
I'd be curious to hear your thoughts, and certainly
any other success stories from you if you've already
put this method to use.
Just remember, the key to giving negative reinforcement
is that your parrot has to remain safe,
and that your parrot can have NO way to associate his
negative reinforcement with you -- he needs to think
he's bringing it all on himself.
It's the only way this type of training will work,
without ruining the relationship you've already
established with your bird.
Here's hoping this can help if you've got a screamer
living in your home -- and bugging you and the neighbors.
Happy Training!
Chet Womach
parrot -- nothing!
That mind numbing screeching, or squaking,and no
matter what you do, never seems to stop. Annoying
screaming comes in as the second biggest reason
people get rid of their parrots... second only to
biting.
In my best selling DVD training course, I spend
a LOT of time talking about one of the greatest
ways to stop screaming, and it's helped hundreds
of my customers get their parrots to finally put
a cork in it.
But in this newsletter issue I want to tell you
about a new technique that is working wonders on
how to get parrot to stop screaming.
This method deals with NEGATIVE reinforcement:
Most people think negative reinforcement is
punishing a bird for his bad behavior, and they're
right. A perfect example of the WRONG way to use
negative reinforcement would be to spray your bird
with water, or throw a rolled up sock at his cage
if he starts to scream. And here's why that's the
WRONG way to use negative reinforcement...
Because the bird sees you throw the object at him,
or sees you swat him, or sees you yell at him to
"SHUT UP!"
Thus the bird DIRECTLY associates his punishment
with you, it's owner, and ends up becoming fearful
of you and less trusting.
So the trick is to use negative reinforcement in
a way that DOESN'T leave your bird associating his
punishment with you, or other members of your
family.
In fact ideally, you want the bird to think he
caused himself to be punished.
A perfect example of this would be if a cat hopped
up on your counter and walked accross your hot
stove.
Upon touching the stove, the cat would be burned
badly enough so that he probably would never go
near that stove top again. And if he burned
himself twice, my bet is he wouldn't come within
10 feet of that stove for the rest of his life.
Now you wouldn't do this on purpose, but it serves
as a perfect example of how a behavior was trained
using negative reinforcement without leaving the
animal with a personal grudge against it's
owner. The punishment was given, and the cat
doesn't have anyone to blame but himself, or the
stove. (which is a key point to remember)
So the goal is to recreate that situation, in a
MUCH more mild form that doesn't harm your bird,
but scares, or startles him slightly when he's
in the act of screaming.
Just like the cat who's not very excited to singe
his little paws on that hot stove a second time,
you can get a parrot to realize that every time
he screams he causes a negative experience to
happen; an experience that happens whenvever
he screams with you in the vicinity. But to do this, it
needs to be done in a way that your bird doesn't
suspect you're the one giving him the negative
experience.
I first learned this technique when my father
got all pissy at our Golden Retriever puppy when
I was a child... threatening to give it up to
the pound if I didn't train him to behave better.
So I ordered some training guides from an
infomercial and put them to use.
These training guides used negative reinforcement
exclusively, but in a way that didn't leave our
dog mad at us for distributing his punishement.
And while today I think there was a lot wrong
with that course I bought, I like to think you
can take something from it.
So I started brainstorming how to give parrots
a negative punishment discretly.
I thought the best way would be to use a loud
startling noise maker, that could be set off
the second a parrot screamed -- causing the
parrot to be startled, and stop screaming.
I'd been toying around with the idea and talking
about it with a few people, when one of my clients
actually put it to use and reported back on this
method's amazing success on his Umbrella Cockatoo.
Here's how he did it:
This client happened to keep his parrots in
an empty garage. It was a nice garage and had
been a nice bird room. And here's the key point
about this garage...
... It still had working garage door openers, that
could automatically open his loud, grinding garage
doors, whenever he wished, with a button.
This noise always startled the bird, but not in
a way that would send him thrashing and lashing
in panic accross his cage. Instead he'd just
stiffen up and hold onto his cage bars tighter --
the perfect amount of negative reinforcement.
And here's the best part.
This owner's cockatoo would constantly scream for
his owner's attention. And the neigbors were starting
to get a bit pissy about it!
So he decided to reward his cockatoo every time
he screamed -- with a scary garage door. (but perfectly
harmless, and NOT associated with the owner)
Each time the cockatoo would scream, the owner
(who would carry the garage door opener on his belt
while in his house) would simply tap the garage
door openerbutton, which opened the garage, startling
the parrot, who would then stop screaming!
And what happened over time, is that the owner trained
his parrot to think that every time his parrot screamed, the
garage door would open....training it in such a way that did not
leave the parrot resentful of its owner.
Because the parrot thought he caused the scary
thing to happen resulted in. . .
The parrot stopped screaming, because he didn't like
the scary garage to open anymore.
It's a beautful technique that I suggest you apply
to your parrot if he has a screaming problem.
But PLEASE use some discretion.
I don't want the thousands of people reading this
email to all go pluck their parrots from the
environment they're comfortable in, and stick them
in a garage.
Your garage might not be a SAFE place for your parrot.
There may be gas fumes, it may be too drafty, or too
cold etc.
Instead, take the principal and get creative.
And for Gosh sakes, DO NOT go OVERBOARD on this.
I don't want to hear through the grapevine that a
bunch of peole are firing up chain saws next to
their birds cages, and doing stuff that terrifies
their parrots.
You only need to STARTLE your parrot... not scare
the wajeebeez out of him. So please be smart about
this, and if in doubt, don't do it.
I'd be curious to hear your thoughts, and certainly
any other success stories from you if you've already
put this method to use.
Just remember, the key to giving negative reinforcement
is that your parrot has to remain safe,
and that your parrot can have NO way to associate his
negative reinforcement with you -- he needs to think
he's bringing it all on himself.
It's the only way this type of training will work,
without ruining the relationship you've already
established with your bird.
Here's hoping this can help if you've got a screamer
living in your home -- and bugging you and the neighbors.
Happy Training!
Chet Womach






16 Comments:
It is very usefull.
My parrot won't scream again...
By
siaVash (One of your friend), at 3:07 AM
I am disgusted by you and your "products". For people truly looking for help with their parrots, I suggest you visit Mytoos.com and leave this abusive junk alone.
By
Anonymous, at 7:42 PM
To the post above...
Guess I can't please everybody. And you are right, Mytoos.com does have a very good website.
But if you would have read the newsletter you would have realized how non abusive the methods I'm talking about are.
I make it very clear that the bird cannot associate the startling noise with you as the owner. Its a seperte stimulus to distract the bird. I suggest you open up your mind and realize that all negative reinforcement training doesn't have to be abusive, as you claim.
It would be silly to think that a parrot in it's natural environment doesn't learn from negative reinforcements. We just need to be smart about how we use it.
And keep in mind...
I talk about all sorts of different methods to help birds stop screaming in my courses. I talk about how to replace the screaming with talking, in my teaching your parrots to talk course, so he talks for your attention instead of screaming -- do you consider that abusive as well? My guess is probably not.
And I talk about how to not teach your bird to scream for attention by leaving the room when he screams. And I could go on and on and on, but I won't since you'd probably rather blasphame me, istead of focusing on helping people.
By
Chet Womach, at 10:55 AM
Chet your doing a great Job, if my Cockatoo starts screaming I"ll try your way, I have a lot of trust in you, you've never done wrong in my books we all learn from things.. but I truely think this person wanted to advertize that site.. I've also been on it, its good but I do learn more from you. Your newsletters are a great help ...
I have gotten Mr. Crunch Bird to stop bitting, he is lovealbe now and loves my husband also... I do have a proble as he stopped talking and I don't know why I rescued him a year ago and he talked up good.. now its only nite Nite and I'm a pretty bird.
Well enough said on my things.. Don't listen to those type of people..Carry on my good Man.
Fredericka
By
fredericka, at 6:48 PM
My Cockatiel, Fred, responds great to positive reinforcement but anytime I told him NO, it seemed that he would just do whatever wrong thing he was doing, faster. Just like a kid! Well, I remembered that our old ringing telephone used to startle him right off of his perch so we replaced it with a new phone and a nice melody ringer. Then I found one of those old hotel counter bells that you hit and it rings. I put it on the corner of my desk and was going to teach him to hit it, but he did not like it. I then started to use it when he was doing something wrong and it worked great! He would immediately stop and go back to doing something else. Thanks for your info Chet, it helps to know that my instincts were right once again. I did order your clicker program and it will be a big help. Congrats on your new baby and have a Happy New Year!
Regards,
Sugarshirl
By
Sugarshirl, at 8:26 PM
Chet,
I am very keen to try this method, however, i do not know what i can use to startle my bird. he lives both on a stand in our laundry and in a cage outside the back door. If you have any ideas on what i can use to help stop this screeching, please email me with a suggestion.
My email is miss_riss_06@hotmail.com
thankyou so much for your time,
regards,
Larissa Hughes
By
Larissa, at 7:02 PM
Hi- I recently discovered your website while trying to figure out how to help my parrot adjust to a new environment. I purchased some of your videos and am waiting for them to arrive, but listening to your audios make me think that they might not help with my specific problem. I have a Congo African Grey and a Blue-Throated Macaw. They have been living in the same room for about 4 years now.
Kiwi (the macaw) has spent most of her time on her perch, she had a cage, but was rarely put in it, she's always prefered the perch and only got off of it to let us know if she ran out of food... haha. (she would fly onto Oz's cage, undo the lock on his water, pull the bowl out and dump the water on the floor. Then Oz would climb out, fly into the hallway getting the dogs' attention, who would get our attention... she is very smart!) She was 3 when she came to live with us. My former boss had her and lets just say, most of her life with him she was neglected and became quite mean. When she came to the pet shop he would only be able to pick her up with a stick which she hated, you can't bring a stick anywhere near her to this day without her getting very upset. When my boss went out of business, he owed me a lot of money and knowing how much I cared for Kiwi he offered her, her perch, and her cage as payment for what he owed me, and I agreed. When we took her home and cared for her she quickly became attached to my husband, and though it took a little longer, she eventually warmed up to me as well and gets better every day. The only thing with her is that she's only truly affectionate to my husband when I'm not in the room. And she's doing better with me (she'll let me pet her back and sometimes pick her up), but we're working on that. The other day I was fixing a toy that was hanging to low over her perch and she came over to me while i wasn't looking and grabbed onto the waist of my pants with one foot and kept biting at my sweatshirt, biting my stomach in the process. She actually doesn't bite very hard, but I'd still like her to stop trying to bite completely.
Oz (the Congo) has spent alot of his time in his cage, especially at night, unless we were playing with him or he asks to come out. We recently built him a perch and took the cage away. (Which I believe is the problem, even more now that I have been listening to your audios) He seems happy most of the time and has discovered that he loves to swing now (he used to be afraid of swinging). He has always seemed to be afraid of the dark. We used to let him stay on top of his cage sometimes (he had a play area), but if it got dark while he was still on top of the cage he would fly off into the hallway. Now that we have just the two perches we have a screen door so he can't fly out of the room (we have three dogs also). After taking away the cage, I started keeping a few nite lights on for him, but if i didn't put them on before it got dark he would fly onto the floor and I was afraid of him hurting himself. Also, I wasn't sure if he and Kiwi were getting enough sleep due to the nite lights being on all night long. I tried to slowly take one nite light away at a time, and i got down to just one which left the room fairly dark, but when i went in the next morning to give them their breakfast Oz had his feathers all fluffed up and put his foot out as if he wanted me to pick him up and he grabbed my finger a bit me... it really wasn't like him. After that i was back to 2 nite lights and he seemed ok, but everything i have read says that u should have them in complete darkness and silence for at least 8-12 hrs a night.
Two nights ago, we forgot to plug a nite light in before leaving the house and it was dark when we got home, Oz was still on his perch so I decided to leave him be. The next morning he was still on his perch and he was fine. I took him out in the morning to do morning chores with me (cook breakfast, feed the dogs, etc.) and he was being very lovey and affectionate, he has also been reguritating to me a lot the last couple days (which after reading ur articles, i guess that's bad?). Anyway, I took him out again that night and then again the following morning (yesterday) and he was real lovey still. Then last night I was on the computer with him perched on the chair next to me, like usual. I was petting his head on and off for quite a while and then all of a sudden he tried to climb up onto my arm, I didn't want him on my shoulder so I put my opposite hand out to have him step up and he bit me, but did step up and then he continued to visciously bite my hand while i was holding him so I calmly put him down onto the chair, left to room for a minute, came back and this time picked him up with a stick and put him back on his perch where he stayed for the night. This morning I went in and he didn't seem to lovey so i picked him up with the stick again and brought him into the bathroom with me while I took my shower, then he came with me to get dressed and then he was starting to be good again so I gave him a little juice. Then I decided to try to get him to do something for the juice and I actually got him to start waving in just a couple of minutes, but he still wouldn't let me touch him. So I decided to try your stick trick since I've never been able to touch his lower back or tail, but after a min or two of that he was shaking, the sticks terrified him! So I am so lost with him. He went from being my sweet loving companion to being afraid and mean overnight.
I was tempted to give him his cage back, but my husband is completely against it, he says it takes up to much room and if I want to give him a cage for night time i can give him a smaller one. (my arguement is that if he's upset about changing his environment then giving him a "new" cage isn't going to help)
Kiwi used to scream for hours, but has actually stopped screaming since we re-did the room which amazes me!
I included these links, they're pictures of them and of their new environment, these were taken before we were finished haning toys and stuff, we have a mural of a rainforest that is going behind their perch and then I'm going to repaint the rest of the room. I'm sorry this is so long, you probably didn't need to know all of that... haha.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j102/badaszx9r/100_0505.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j102/badaszx9r/100_3691.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j102/badaszx9r/100_3677.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j102/badaszx9r/100_3679.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j102/badaszx9r/100_3673.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j102/badaszx9r/100_3678.jpg
Thank you so much for taking your time to read this and I really hope you might have some pointers for me, I would appreciate it so much!
Thank you again,
Lindsey, Oz & Kiwi
By
Lindsey, at 11:53 AM
Couple more questions for you... my husband thinks that both of our birds are already underweight and doesn't want to limit their food. on both of them you can see the line in the middle of their belly and he thinks their bellies should be round. Looking at pictures of different birds I found that I could see the line in most of the Congos, but not the Blue-throated macaws. Do you know how to tell? I was looking up how much they are supposed to weigh and found charts that have a 300 gram difference from one to the other.
Also, I have been trying to research all of the different plants that are poisonous to birds (of course I'm sure it differs from one type of bird to another, the list was so long that I was starting to wonder if any plants were okay for birds) so that I could put something safe for them in their room. And in doing that I found that "may apple trees" are poisonous to them (all but the fruit) Do you know if all apple trees are bad for them? The reason I ask is because one of the perches is made from an apple tree (I believe it's a macintosh).
Thanks Again!
-Lindsey, Kiwi, Oz-
By
Lindsey, at 12:14 PM
Man, I just read that mytoos website. What a pack of Nazis! Its really sad that some people cannot see the shades of grey in the world which is where all the good things lie, and instead believe that breeders are all cruel animal torturers. Such narrow-minded ignorance has made me sick to the stomach.
I spose there will always be extreme idiots in any field, even bird ownership.
I don't have a problem with my eclectus screaming, but I like your solution Chet. Simple, harm-minimalised and with the goal all bird owners should have - improving your relationship with your bird so you and he/she can both live better lives.
When I acquire a mate for my eclectus it might come in handy. Thanks. :)
By
Rybosh, at 7:56 PM
I am a dog trainer for over 25 years. And I am a new parrot care taker. I use a method very similar for barking dogs.
Of course barking is one of the big reasons for dogs being killed every day
in shelters.
And prevention in starting a bad or annoying behaviour is the best and easiest way to go.
However thank you for your great ideas in parrot traing in and care especially for those of us who have an adult problem with the screaming problem already.
You can't pleasse everyone.
By
Anonymous, at 12:14 PM
I hate to nitpick but punishment and negative reinforcement are not the same thing. This is really important in behavior training as there are technically three approaches that can be used:
1) Positive Reinforcement - The introduction of a reward following the demonstration of the wanted behavior. (eg. giving a child a candy for cleaning their room)
2) Punishment - The introduction of an unpleasant experience following the demonstration of an unwanted behavior. (eg. sending a child to their room without dinner for misbehavior)
3) Negative Reinforcement - The removal of the unpleansant stimulus once the desire behavior is obtained (eg. allowing a child to leave their room after they stop shouting or crying, reinforcing the fact that if they stop crying earlier they can leave their room faster).
Both Positive and Negative reinforcement seek to increase a desired behavior.
Punishment on the other hand seeks to decrease an undesired behavior. In the case you presented the startling noise would be considered punishment, not negative reinforcement.
By
Anonymous, at 10:39 AM
Hi there !! Please can you assist in getting my indian ring neck to stop screaming as my girlfriend wants me to get rid of him because he doesn't stop screaming!!! he only keeps quite when i hold him--- it's as if he just wants to be with me all the time!!! i used to have an indian ring neck before and he would be happy to sit quitely on his own!!! i have read your comments on negative re-enforcment however i do not have anything like a noisy garage door to startle him??? please can you suggest some ideas?
Many thanks
Deni
Please e-mail me on d.dalgleish@hotmail.com
By
Anonymous, at 8:02 AM
"Anonymous", your comments regarding the nature of "negative reinforcement" are so illogical, it makes my head hurt.
You said, and I quote:
"2) Punishment - The introduction of an unpleasant experience following the demonstration of an unwanted behavior."
Not exactly, but I'll get to the real meaning in a minute.
Further, you said:
"3) Negative Reinforcement - The removal of the unpleansant stimulus once the desire behavior is obtained."
Um... this is just logically wrong. By definition, this is just another form of positive reinforcement. You have rewarded the child (or bird) for doing something you want it to do. (That is, stop screaming.) Any time there is a reward involved, it is positive reinforcement. Ending an unpleasant situation is a reward.
You said:
"Both Positive and Negative reinforcement seek to increase a desired behavior."
No, they do not. Ask any professional animal trainer, and they will tell you that the difference between positive and negative reinforcement is the type of feedback given to the animal. Positive reinforcement is a pleasant form of feedback, and negative reinforcement is an unpleasant form of feedback. Note that unpleasant does NOT equal harmful. Negative reinforcement attempts to convince the animal that a certain behavior is unacceptable by presenting it with an immediate unpleasant consequence to its actions.
You continued with:
"Punishment on the other hand seeks to decrease an undesired behavior. In the case you presented the startling noise would be considered punishment, not negative reinforcement."
This is, of course, just factually wrong. The difference between negative reinforcement and punishment is TIME SPAN. Both positive and negative reinforcement are singular events that occur at the instant of poor behavior. Your bird does something good, you give it a treat, and then the reinforcement is finished. Your bird does something bad, you tell your bird, "No!", and then the reinforcement is finished.
PUNISHMENT, on the other hand, is a n ongoing process whereby an unpleasant situation for the animal is continued beyond the timeframe of the actual behavior you're trying to prevent. Sticking the bird in the bathroom for an hour because it won't shut up is an example of punishment: the consequence lasts well beyond the event. And the reason any form of punishment (whether physically harmful or not) doesn't work on most animals is that they can't reason well enough to realize what caused the punishment in the first place, because they can't tie an ongoing situation to a singular event. If every time your bird screams, it gets startled, that is something it can tie in as cause-and-effect. However, once you've put the bird in the bathroom... it can still scream, with no further consequence available to you. That's why punishment doesn't work. But giving your bird negative feedback for poor behavior is NOT punishment.
Negative reinforcement can be just as useful as positive reinforcement, AS LONG AS it is not harmful to the bird. In nature, animals regularly learn from negative reinforcement. To suggest that it is in some way cruel to deal out unpleasant (but ultimately harmless) sensations as a consequence of poor behavior shows a lack of open-minded thinking on your part.
I just wish I could think of a way to use negative reinforcement on my cockatiel, but I haven't yet come up with something I can do that won't look like the feedback is coming from me.
By
Eric Storm, at 2:33 PM
My husband & I let our macaw and cockatoo scream once in a while for 28 years. It wasn't constant and not annoying to us. We thought it was part of being birds. Now, my husband passed away (the macaw misses him terribly & screams more) and NO ONE wants my birds around. I'm not giving them up so I'll try your method and hope after all this time it will work. I hope older birds can unlearn longtime behavior. Thanks for an idea. I LOVE these family members and don't find your method cruel at all.
By
Anonymous, at 2:25 AM
DO You think that something as a duck call would be subtle enough so that bird does not think im blowing it?
By
Karl Gabski, at 8:09 AM
hi chet
what a brill idea i work for a parrot recuse in the uk and i have just taken on a sulpher crested cockatoo that is scremaing constantly unless i,m holding him he is loveable tame and so so cheeky but he makes so much noise more than the rest of my gang put together
you gave me an idea on this page i used to train dogs and used this way with them like clicker training but we used bottle filled with stones for bad behaviour which we shook to startle the dog i am going to give this ago with the too and see if it works as i can see my neighbours getting fed up with his noise
also it may well work to with his distructiveness i dont belive in birds being in cages so he is out all day when i am here but i darent leave him out when i,m not like i do the other too and the grey
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Anonymous, at 4:00 AM
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